With Rob & Sheralee staying in Isabela, Roger & I weighed anchor and headed out for Sta Cruz. It was about a 7 hour sail and we had hopes of catching up with Graham, on Eowyn, before he left for the Marquesas.

Now we had heard lots about the anchorage at Peurto Ayora, being busy and rocky rolly. Indeed there are so many boats, you have to not only have a bow anchor but also a stern anchor (a first for me).  So we had not been looking forward  to it, but alas it was necessary, as Edison was due on board on Monday to remove all the refrigeration parts.

The good news was that the World Arc were leaving before we would arrive, the bad news is that the Blue Water Rally was due in on Tuesday, when we hope to have left.

It was a nice sail/ motor sail and as we approached the island was ran into the 40 or so yachts that were leaving on the World Arc. The World Arc is a continuation of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers otherwise known as the Arc.  So we contacted Eowyn with the intention of coming alongside to at least say hello, having missed them in Las Perlas and Wreck Bay.

Roger increased the engine revs and we sped towards her, but I was not convinced it was the right boat, just then Graham came on the radio and confirmed it, we had missed them!!! Ah well, it was so close (half a mile) yet so far. We had to get into Puerto Ayora before dark, so that was that.

The anchorage was relatively empty,  so most of the boats had only one anchor out, so we didn’t need a stern anchor.

The next day I was given leave to spend the day ashore, exploring.

The town is very well done, not garish and flashy, but tastefully done. Very different to both San Cristobal which is like a seaside resort and Isla Isabela, which is like a little village.

There are paved roads and the streets are framed with lots of greenery and flowers.

The promenade is lovely with a play area for children which is extremely well patronised by the locals in the evening.

One thing that Isla Isabela and Sta Cruz have in common though is unusual architecture. It is as though the architects have been given free reign to build whatever there heart desires.

I saw a fabulous house that was very much like the one I had seen in Isla Mujeres, Mexico, but this one has the most gorgeous gates, befitting its owner, who was a fine jeweller.

There is a lovely church. Lovely because it looks so welcoming. It is full of lovely stained glass windows and the entire front is glass, so when it is illuminated it looks amazing ( I will try and get a photo when we go back).

It doesn’t look quite so impressive by day. The stained windows are also not really religious. They are of the wonderful creatures of the Galapagos.

There are the usual restaurants and shops and lots of art Galleries. I was just thinking how little craftwork there was on the islands and then I stumble on galleries full of local works. The prices are relatively high, but you can find bargains. It’s the same in the restaurants. Last night we splurged out and had a slap up meal in The Rock. A very nice restaurant, pricey and the food was not all that, but the service was excellent and the atmosphere was great too.

Today however, I had almeurza (the local fixed menu) at a little restaurant called Rincon de Alma, just a block down from the Rock. For $4 I had a large bowl of soup, a plate of grilled fish, rice and vegetables and a glass of Tamarind and Naranjillo juice (delicious). All that for the same price as my dessert the night before !!!

I was looking for a tee shirt for Roger. Something discreet, mainly to replace his diminishing stock as much as a momento.

 I walked into one shop and from nowhere, heard ‘good morning’. I couldn’t see anyone, but replied all the same. I walked to the back of the store and there saw the source of the voice. A small gentleman called Angelo.

 He is very excitable, a little bit like the ‘white rabbit’ out of Alice in Wonderland. Is was extremely animated and spoke good English, or should I say that his English pronunciation was good, but his grammar left much to the imagination.

He was also the person responsible for making all the tee shirts. They are all hand painted, free hand! He was busy painting a hammerhead shark on one.

I thought ‘a Manta ray would be perfect for Roger’ as it would be significant. So I arranged for him to paint one for Roger and we are to pick it up later this evening. At least it would be unique and in the colour and style of choice rather than what you could get.

The main purpose of my visit, however, was to suss out the provisioning facilities.

 I passed a little fish market, where the human were not the only customers, Pelicans hovered close by in the hope of scraps.

The fish looked good, so assuming we have refrigeration, I will stock up before we head off into the wild blue yonder.

Now I know that we have Rob on board to help catch fish, but as this is an El Nino year and that can affect fish levels, I am taking no chances.

However, the supermarket is a different matter. I can only hope that the reason there is nothing on the shelves is because the 40 yachts that make up the World Arc have bought everything. If not, then refrigeration or no refrigeration, we are in deep trouble. There was no meat, hardly any vegetables, what vegetables they had were not worth giving storage space to. Plus we also have the Blue water cruise to compete with.

Ah well, I’m sure it will all sort itself out, one way or another.

After a very uncomfortable, rocky rolly night (the wind had changed direction) we woke early and got ready to weigh anchor. I have to say I was pleased to be leaving the anchorage as more Blue water cruisers were arriving. One had anchored alongside of us (a posh one, as they were flying a blue defaced ensign) and had put out a stern anchor. Now that is fine and dandy if all of the boats around you have stern anchors out, but as none of them did, it was a risky strategy. Why? Because as the wind changes direction, the boats on one anchor swing into the wind, but if you have a bow and a stern anchor out, well you don’t move…..get the picture?? So as we had swung and they hadn’t, we were a little too close for comfort, so I was glad to betting out of there.

The sail (sorry, motor sail, I did say the wind had switched) back to Isla Isabela was a fast one and we were safely back in our anchorage just after 3pm. I have to say that our track record with the wind leaves a lot to be desired and gives me concern for the time it will take to get across to the Marquesas!!!!

If any of you have looked on google earth to see exactly where we are, it may look like there appears to be nothing but water between us and Australia. You have to zoom in quite a way to see the islands between us and Australia, but rest assured they are there.

After the Galapagos, we are heading for the Marquesas in French Polynesia, then onto the Touamotu islands, then Tahiti, the Society islands, Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu and finally Australia.

Oh yes and a quick update, remember Kinky the Skink? Well he is alive a well. Roger spotted him under the table in the cockpit!!