Pacaya, Guatemala

Beaujolais
Tue 15 Apr 2008 04:36

 Yet another first!!!

 

After a leisurely breakfast we set off to explore Antigua. We found beautiful courtyards hidden away behind the shabbiest of facades & lovely little cafes hidden away from the hustle and bustle of the streets.

As with many cities in Central America, the social life revolves around the parks, or squares and Antigua is no exception.

 

We found our way to the Central Square with its grand old building, lovely covered walkways and cobbled streets.

 

Whilst walking along we noticed a sign for a tour to the active volcano of Pacaya. We both individually and immediately decided we wanted to do it and booked for that afternoon.

 

One thing we have learned is that tours are very good value and much easier and far better than DIY tourism. For US$7, the bus would pick us up at the hotel, drive us the one and half hour journey to the volcano and back and provide a guide too. All we had to do was to pay the 40Q (US$5) entry fee to the national park area.

 

We were both quite excited at the prospect of not only seeing but also climbing an active volcano, especially after the events of the previous night.

 

Having climbed in Angangueo Mexico, I had decided that this time I would ride the 2500m distance that would bring us to the lava flow on horseback. Roger, of course, would walk it!

 

I negotiated a price of 100Qs (US$14) for the return trip and mounted my steed, a very kind 8 year old horse called Canario. I was led by Marlo a cheeky 11 year old from one of the villages below the volcano.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At first I was the only one riding, all the others preferring to tough it out. However, by the end of the climb there were several others who had joined me, wishing they had done so earlier.

 

One of the advantages of riding (and it wasn’t a cushy number let me assure you) was that you could enjoy the scenery, which was amazing, instead of walking, head down and only looking up when they stopped for a “breather” (it was actually to breathe!!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we reached the lava flow, Roger was nowhere to be seen! Everyone had been told to stay with their groups, but Roger being Roger had gone ahead. I could just imagine the look of disbelief on the faces of his friends and family when I told them I lost him on a volcano!!!! But I needn’t have worried, he was waiting further ahead with another group!!! (He said I must explain that he had a money belt under his Polo shirt).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We all set off across the slopes of lava crusts formed during the previous 3 years of eruptions and oozings, toward the red hot lava flows.

 

It was incredible to think that directly under the crust and our feet, hot molten lava was flowing.

 

The temperature began to rise until we reached the point where the molten flow surfaced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The temperature, we were told, reaches 1400 degrees centigrade!!  Let me tell you, I for one believe it.

 

It was almost unbearable to walk on, the heat penetrating our shoes. We were both sure our soles were melting (as it turned out, they hadn’t). It took me back to my fire-walking days, which I may tell you, were a lot more comfortable than this was.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was only as we made our way back down later that evening as the sun was setting, that we actually thought about what we had just done. We had all, willingly, walked and climbed across a lava crust of undetermined thickness and stability.

 

A crust, which could have collapsed at any time sending any of us to instant death. The stability of the crust had already shown to be less than secure as chunks slipped when stepped on, not to mention the injury should you merely slip and fall, which would have resulted in being cut to ribbons on the razor sharp crusts.

 

It also occurred to us how it was only because of where we were that were indeed able to do it at all. If it had been in Europe you wouldn’t have got anywhere near because of “Health and Safety”. We both agreed, thank God there are still places in the world that you can be responsible for yourself and not have some Government making decisions about your safety on your behalf.

 

I have to say, I have always been fascinated by volcanoes but have only seen dormant ones. I never thought I would get to see and active volcano, neither did Roger and the memory of Pacaya, its beauty and power, will be one of our best of the trip.