We’re going to the Galapagos, or are we?

The Galapagos has long been on my ‘bucket list’, ever since seeing Jacques Cousteau’s documentary on the islands and their waters.

It had been 6 weeks since we boarded Beaujolais and apart from 5 days, it had been non stop work of one sort or another. Every time we thought we were ready to sail, something would go wrong and delay us, yet again. I think we were all getting restless.

Roger had replaced the clutch in the refrigeration compressor and Sheralee and I had done the final provisioning, so at 4.30pm on Feb 18t^th we slipped the mooring buoy and headed out of the port of Balboa.

By 4.40pm on Feb 18^th there was a horrible clunk from the engine room and we knew the refrigeration compressor had expired. It would have been an easy task to turn around and pick up the mooring buoy and get it repaired.

But Roger and I looked at each other and said ‘ Sod it, keep going, we’ll manage without it!’ such was the frustration with the delays, neither of us could face another week while it was repaired.

I have told many people that part of my challenge is providing a good varied and interesting diet for everyone. I never for once imagined it would be without refrigeration. Ah well, as I am known to say, ‘be careful what you wish for!!!’

So far the passage has been great. A couple of days we had reasonable winds and could sail (which made Roger happy!!) and made good speed,  Rob and Sheralee found their sea legs and we have seen many dolphins.

 It is amazing the difference it makes having another couple to stand watches. It is soooooo much easier and more pleasant. So far I haven’t even had one ship on my night watch. 

At the moment whilst we are technically in the ‘doldrums’ we do have a slight wind, but as usual it is on the nose, so we are motor sailing. Another name for the Doldrums is the ITCZ otherwise known as the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone. It is varies in width from 150 miles anywhere up to 300 or 400 miles wide. It changes latitudes with the seasons. It moves into the southern pacific during the months of November to May, otherwise it lies in the northern hemisphere.

Last night was a beautiful night, the seas were flat calm, almost glassy, a half moon hung in the sky and, for the first time since leaving Panama, I had stars. As I sat thinking how wonderful it was, I found myself thinking back to my childhood. I remembered seeing films about boats adrift in the ‘doldrums’ never once thinking I would ever be there myself, yet here I was, on a boat in the doldrums!! Amazing, just goes to show you never know where life will lead, if you let it!!!

The clouds came over and cut out the moon and stars and created a really ethereal atmosphere, where it was impossible to distinguish between the sea and the sky, the horizon having disappeared. It was like I imagined it would have been when the Marie Celeste was adrift, without her crew, very eerie.

We had a 6^th member of the crew aboard, Kinky the skink being the 5^th. During the afternoon a little sea bird, I’m calling him ‘Spike’ because of his hair do (breed yet to be established…..no google at sea he! he!) had landed on the boat.

 It was obviously exhausted and it sat on the tent roof, whilst recouping its strength. It was funny, because from underneath, we could see its little feet walking around on the tent.

It stayed with us until 7am the next day before flying off (and leaving a numerous reminders of its presence). As we were over 200 miles from Panama with over 600 to the Galapagos, it had a long way to go either way!!!

Another curious thing about this passage, is the number of squid that keep jumping on board.

We often have flying fish on board, but have never had squid before. So far we have had 5 on board and we only managed to rescue one.

UPDATE……

Just a quick update on the fishing status. So far it is Fish NIL, Lures ONE!!!!! So we could lose an awful lot of weight on this trip if things don’t change.

Also we think ‘kinky’ may have perished as when the clutch burned out, the smoke was thick and acrid and we haven’t seen him since.