Having called Idelfonso the night before, we set off for Mormake Tupu (Isla Machina) also known as the Mola Makers Island.

We had only been able to leave a message on his voicemail so weren’t sure that we would be doing the traditional tour of the island that day.

As we approached Mormake Tupu it was apparent it was very different from the other islands we had seen. It was densely populated with huts almost spilling over into the sea.

All over the island there were flags, which meant it was difficult for us to find Idelfonsos’ house (he had told us to look for the Kuna Yala flag). We later learned that all of the flags were political flags as an election was due.

 As usual, the ulus came out, but this time in force, we were inundated. But I have a policy, if they can take the time to paddle out, the least I can do is take the time to look at their produce. We also have a sweetie jar and hand out sweets to the children in the ulus (Chris had also found the sweetie jar, much to Lynne's chagrin).

Just then another yacht came sailing into the anchorage with Idelphonso at the helm!!, We arranged to meet him at 4pm for the island tour.

As we dinked over to the island, we saw a big sign advertising his services, he also had his own jetty.

We were greeted and taken through to his house. He told us that first we must visit the Congresso and ask the Silah for permission to visit the island and also pay our taxes (Kunas also pay these taxes).

We practiced our Kuna and headed to the Congresso. It is a large hut that is used for meetings, in it are rows of benches and several hammocks. In the hammocks were the Silahs, the first chief, the second and the third were there. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos. We exchanged greetings and paid our taxes when we were given permission to visit the island.

By the time we left the congresso, I reckon the whole island knew we where there.

All the women came out of their houses and started to display their beautiful Molas. Little children peeped through shutters and came out to get their sweets. I had to ration them as I knew I would run out pretty quickly.

The people were all smiles and very friendly, even though we didn’t buy any of their goods.

The huts are jam packed together, with little sandy paths between them.

The place is immaculately clean, there is no noise and no smell, which is more than can be said for many other places of such high density population I have visited through the years.

The women come out 3 times a day to sweep the streets. They sit on the doorsteps sewing their molas while the children play in the street.

We stopped at the bakery and bought 10 kuna bread rolls for $1.

Having had no lunch we ate them while they were still warm, they were absolutely delicious. So much so that the next day Roger bought another 20 when he took Idelfonso back after our river trip.

The island grows some of its own fruit, mango, bread fruit and for medicinal purposes, Noni fruit, which is soaked in water overnight until soft and then the juice squeezed out.

They have electricity on the island and they also have wells for water. The street lamps were innovative - an energy saving bulb inside a large plastic bottle, tied to a post. (right side in Photo)

Certainly safer than a lot of the Central American countries which are supposed to be more developed!

We then went into Idelphonsos’  dormitory hut. The extended family all live together, and the dormitory is just that, with hammocks slung between the ‘joists’. During the day they slide them to the side of the hut out of the way.

 Idelphonso showed us the families’ collection of Nuchus. These are crudely carved sacred dolls that contain the spirits of loved ones who have died.

They play a very big part in the lives of the Kuna. If someone is ill or has a problem, they ask the Nuchus to help, they burn medicine leaves and using a small pipe, smoke something, which I assume is mildy hallucinogenic, and meditate. If a neighbour has a problem, they will lend their Nuchus to help them. They have 2 baskets of Nuchus, one protecting the entrance and one for medicine/problem solving.

 It was made even more interesting by the fact that his mother was ill and they were burning leaves etc for her when we were there. You are not allowed to photograph the nuchus, so I have no photo.

We then went into his other hut. We were greeted by the delicious smell of wood smoke. A small fire was kept burning in the middle of the cooking area, with a couple of fish grill on a stick.

There were pots and pans were neatly stacked together with wood for the fire.

It is obvious that the Restrepo family is comparatively well off, Venancio sells his molas for up to $60 and Idelfonso earns a good wage with his tours. In their home they also had a table and chairs to dine at, which I had not seen in any other homes.

Idelfonso charged us nothing for the tour, but the following day we were going on a tour up the river and we would pay him $10 a head, so maybe that’s why he didn’t charge us??

Venancio sat outside the hut sewing yet another of his spectacular molas.

It was lovely to have a guide when we went around the island, you get so much more out of it.

The next morning (and I mean morning!!!) at 07.00 Roger picked Idelfonso up and brought him on board. We were sailing over to the mainland, then dinghying up the river.

It was overcast and the rain fell sporadically, but I think that was in our favour, as it brought the birds out.

We saw toucans and monkeys (well I never saw them, but the other did) and Idelphonso saw birds he had never seen before. We heard, but didn’t see, woodpeckers too.

Apparently, the day before he had taken the French boat up and they had seen nothing.

We had taken our binoculars and Idelfonso would run back to whoever was holding them to borrow them to check things out. He was most impressed, he said he thought they were excellent and needed a pair himself. I had a small pair of field binoculars on board that we never used, so I gave them to him when we got back to the boat. Obviously not as good as our Mirandas, but better than nothing until he got his own.

The Kuna have ‘gardens’ in the jungle and travel to tend them. The downside is that a lot of the jungle is being cleared for planting, that was what the smoke we had been seeing was.

The noise of the clearing was scaring the monkeys away, but we didn’t mind as there were so many birds to see.

We crossed Kuna bridges made of poles loosely laid together.

A man passed us carrying lots of sticks, Idelfonso explained he was getting materials for building his house.

 Later when we were returning to the dinghy,  we saw him collecting stones from the river bed, also for his house.

On the way back the river was so shallow, we couldn’t dinghy, so we waded down the river ( there weren’t any crocodiles) before dinghying back to the boat.

Idelfonso told Roger he knew a quicker route back to the island and Roger nervously let him take the helm.