Nuku Hiva, Hakahaa Cove in Controleur Bay - (44)

Beaujolais
Mon 10 May 2010 19:56

Position: 08.52.865S 140.02.891W

 

We left the anchorage at Fatu Hiva just as the customs boat pulled in. There had been something of an exodus that morning, many of the boats that left had not yet cleared in, so their timing was excellent.

 

Silandra IV, the other boat we had transited the canal with also pulled into anchorage. Now Rob & Sheralee, if you are reading this, please bear in mind that both Badinguet and Silandra are much bigger boats than Beaujolais. But Silandra did the Galapagos to Marquesas passage in 12 Days!!!!! Badinguet had also set something of a record doing it in 15 days, I was sick!!!!!

 

It was a night passage to Ua Pou, but as I read up on the island, it soon became apparent that I would not be able to do what I wanted to do, that is to collect flower stones.

 

It was the same old story, the anchorage was no where near where we wanted to go and to hire a car would cost $100, which is a lot of pay for flower stones. So we decided to head straight to Nuku Hiva.

 

As we approached Controleur Bay, we were greeted by a few Electra Dolphins, also known as Pygmy Orca. Swimming with them is on my list of things to do.

 

The weather was squally, as it had been all night, we had winds gusting up to 37 kts. So it was a grey anchorage that greeted us at Hakahaa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But, for the first time in a very long time, we were the only people in the anchorage!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dinghied ashore as soon as we had set the anchor. The little town, well a village really, is inland and a pretty walk of about 30 mins. At high tide, you can dinghy up the river right into the village.

 

 

There are flowers and fruit trees everywhere, so many fruits we didn’t recognise. As we turned into the town we were greeted by the prettiest town I have seen anywhere. Beautifully clean and tidy, with flowers alongside the road and on the riverbank. It was the stuff of picture postcards.

 

 

 

We walked further and saw a snack bar, just what we needed, though it wasn’t hot, the walk had made us thirsty.

 

Mahina, the owner greeted us. When we asked if he had anything to drink, he went and made fresh grapefruit juice (with just a hint of honey!), not just a glass, but a jug full. Roger also had half a large papaya to eat and Mahina also sold us a baguette, all for 600 cpfs (US$6).

 

Before we left he gave us a breadfruit and a grapefruit. He offered us more, but I do not like taking, what we cannot eat before it goes off. If you visit the bay and want a taxi, or to arrange dinner call him on 213659 or 920507. If you cannot get hold of him, call his ‘girlfriend’ and co- owner Maeva (means welcome in Tahitian) on 331294.

 

 

 

Just a tip, when you go ashore, always take a boat card if you have them. Mahina was very proud of his book of all the yachts that had visited, I was sorry we didn’t have any cards to leave.

 

Mahina spoke excellent English and was telling us what life was like on the island. ‘You don’t need money’ he said, we have food on the trees, wild goat and sheep and if you want to build a house, you can go into the forest and cut Pandanus Trees. He was right, except how did he pay for his electricity?? Well, it transpired that he also has a taxi business and also makes palm and bamboo screens. In fact his whole snack bar was made by himself.

 

This was not the first time we had heard this, Kathy’s husband in Fatu Hiva had said the same thing. Indeed when you think about it, they are right. There is more fruit on the islands than you can possibly eat, they have fresh water from the rivers (which they keep clean) they can hunt for wild goat or pig, or fish. They have all they need to make homes, though most homes I have noticed are prefabricated. Paradise? Well certainly close. I thought the San Blas was paradise, but their life is harsh in comparison. But something just isn’t right? It just doesn’t fit ‘this we don’t need money’ statement falls down when you look closer. It is one of the most expensive places I have visited in a long time, probably on a par with the Caribbean, but less developed.  When you do look closer, you will see that they have brand new, expensive 4x4’s, they have new Quintrex (tinnie) boats with new and large hp outboards. Most houses also have satellite TV. Maybe they have got paradise, as they seem to have the best of all worlds??? Alex, on Hiva Oa was telling us that the salaries that are paid to teachers and nurses in the Marquesas are the highest in French Polynesia. Why is that if you don’t need money??

 

The price they pay is that they don’t have easy access to medical help. Their education system means that most islands have to send their children to the larger islands. Flights to and from the Maquesas to Tahiti (the nearest Hub) are expensive. Is that too high a price? I don’t know.

 

Everywhere on the island there are coconut tree and Noni trees. The coconut, is dried and sent to Tahiti as copra. The Noni, is also sent to Tahiti where it is fermented and shipped to Salt Lake City, where it is made into Noni Juice. Those of you who have tried Noni Juice (for its medicinal benefits) know how expensive it is (roughly about $30 a litre).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So it is from these two crops that most of the islands generate their income. It must be significant, as I have never seen so many 4x4’s, just about everyone has one and they’re mostly new!!!

 

I asked Mahina how they go about getting them fixed when things go wrong, as I had seen no garages, or workshops.  He told me that a service engineer visits the island every 6 months.

 

We walked back to the bay, by this time my knee was starting to complain (becoming a bit of a habit lately, not used to so much walking I guess??) so I was glad to get back on the boat.

 

As we had the anchorage to ourselves, we had a movie night. As we sat in the cockpit, we noticed the water around us. The wind had got up and was creating wavelets to form and crest, but as they did so they burst into light. At first I thought it was the moon shining on them. But Roger pointed out it was too early for the moon. We looked closer. It was the bioluminescence.

 

I really wish I could have taken a photograph as it was so magical. I have tried to find the words to describe how beautiful the effect was. So here goes, close your eyes and imagine a huge blackout curtain (with me so far?). Now imagine someone slashing the curtain in horizontal slashes and as they do so a brilliant light shines through. Then, as quickly as it appeared it disappears. Well that’s what it was like. As each wavelet crested, it burst into light and then disappeared. Although we see bio-luminescence as we sail at night, it is only spots, like diamonds in the water. This was totally different. There was so much of it. The water here must be extremely rich in plankton.

 

As the wind dropped and wavelets disappeared, so the effect was lost. So I got a banana and threw it into the water, the splash and the ripples were electric blue light. I got a stick and started to ‘draw’ in the water and as I did so, the fish came to see what was going on. I know, because I could see their shapes and their trails illuminated in the water. If you have ever seen Walt Disney’s Fantasia, there is a scene where different coloured lights dance in the night sky, well it was just like that, but in the water. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen, truly magical. If there had been no wind we would never have seen it.

 

If we had done nothing else, it was worth visiting just for that experience. Funny thing is, it isn’t listed in any travel guides I have read!!!