We had decided that today was the day for the hike up to
It is about an hour and a half from the village, the
first part on paved roads though they were quite steep never-the-less but
most of it was on muddy tracks and paths.
As we docked the dinghy, a young woman took our lines,
her name was Laurie.
She was looking for people who wanted to eat
Here there are no restaurants per se, but locals invite
you to eat at their homes and this was one such offer.
For 1700 CPF (US$17) we would get a 3 course meal and you
could BYO. So we signed up and
headed off to the falls.
They are spectacular, the cascade is some 60mts high. We
were lucky as there has been plenty of rain, so there is a good fall.
The village is very pretty with the river running through
They have an interesting way of cutting their hedges
They simply tie a goat to the hedge and it eats all the
Getting to the waterfall is pretty straightforward, you
simply follow the road that leads out of town for about an hour, then take the
2nd turn off on the left, which looks like it is going to a house,
but you walk past it.
Be warned, it is very muddy. But a little further on,
there is a stream to wash your feet in.
I was unlucky, as it was so muddy, the sole of my sandal
came off in the mud. This made the rest of the hike difficult (fortunately, I
had packed some swim shoes, so when my sandals finally gave up on me I had
something to take their place.)
Somebody had very thoughtfully marked the trail with
Which was just as well because the trail disappears and
you are wading through thick vegetation. I was so pleased to know that there are no snakes here!!
Though I was on the look out for the huge millipedes that
give you a nasty bite.
There are however, millions of nono’s (no-see-ums) and I
will tell you tomorrow how voracious they were!
When we finally reached the waterfall, it was in full
flow and quite spectacular, this was an example of the destination being better
than the journey, well worth the effort.
We had timed it well as there was no one else there when
I had been looking forward to the swim in fresh water and
rinsing my hair (as the shower on the boat is not very strong).
The water was cool, but not too cold and it was lovely.
The pool is very deep (okay, it was to me, as I couldn’t touch the bottom) and I
was surprised how difficult it was to breathe at the foot of the waterfall.
It was so nice to be able to actually swim at the falls,
instead of being fenced off, only allowed to look.
Roger & I sat a while, enjoying the beauty of the
surroundings. We had some fruit and
a drink before setting off back to the dinghy.
We had hoped that there would be plenty of fruit, as
there had been in Hiva Oa, but alas it was not
So it was just as well we came prepared this time. It was
lovely and quiet and the temperature was perfect.
The trip back was somewhat treacherous though, as my swim
shoes had no grip and I kept slipping.
The day was marred when, upon getting into the dinghy, we
noticed someone had taken our curly cord.
This is the safety shut off cord for the outboard,
without it you cannot start the engine.
It is the first time we have had anything taken and it
was a surprise in a lovely little place like this. Fortunately my hair was tied
up in a pony tail, so I took the band off and it allowed us to get the engine
started and back to the boat.