Besencon 47:13.32N 06:01.80E
Dole to Besencon 21st August Kaput – lock 61 shut down, our convoy chum was at hand. 10 Hours 14 locks and a holding pontoon for the evening Tied amongst the hire boats in Dole we took a short break to clean the water strainers for engine and generator, looks like this will be a daily job from here as much green goo was extracted but breakfast was pan-a-chocolates not pea soup. From Dole a tiny hop to the first lock and into a tree lined run of water that gave us much appreciated shade. Catching the trees that overhung, as we passed the tiny bridges with a few inches of clearance seemed a lot of space as we got used to the Canal du Rhone au Rhin. This land was one hand on the steering, far too narrow for the autopilot, the other hand on the throttles to kick out of gear for the logs in the canal, one eye on the depth gauge looking for that half meter of water under the boat and the other eye on the engine temperatures checking the goo had not blocked the strainers and overheated an engine. A little stressful with the heat pushing thirty-seven by mid-morning it was time to put shoes on the feet. Life supported by lashing of English tea, a little weak and a little cool but it was the source of all energy for the narrow line of this canal that may be the very last middle French route open this year. We looked down into the local vegetable gardens that were doing well by the riverside of surrounding cottages. Locks interweaved with the canal and the river, we stepped up as the river ran over weirs, we were in the staircase of climb. While the river looked wide and encouraging the canal just got narrower, the giant lilies joined the banks to the middle of the this ‘b road’ tiny stream waterway. Bankside to port, left rolled higher and then turned into cliffs, we were in Matlock Bath! Giant white limestone walls as we passed the small village of Rochefort there was an open gate flood lock, it seemed narrower than a real lock. The cliffs fell away and the forest of Chaux below tall dense green follage to Orchamps. Fire station canal side, that’s a first. Then a VNF canal authority station. Beyond the VNF we travelled alongside the river, a meter above in a walled canal, water on two levels. Lock 61 was upon us. Confidently snook in on the green and red light, clunk as the doors locked and we were in. Pulled the blue riser bar and nothing happened. No bell, no gate closure. Big grin as a French man walked over, it was the chap we had been in convoy with yesterday. ‘You must never edge ahead without a full green, otherwise the lock shuts down.’ Called the VNF on the lock walky talky, it was there lunch time. We had made great time this morning, but the pace looked bleak. No, bless their cotton socks, how close was that VNF station, a lock master arrived within ten mins, on his lunch break, re-set the light sensor. ‘Mercie’ Wow we were away before we even cut the baguette for our own lunch. Oh so careful for full green on the next lock, stand on the bow, use the remote control sender, wait for green. No more mistakes on that one then. Ranchot was the next town and then we had a short time back on the real river in this hop scotch of heights, up to a staggering six knots for a little deep water burst to clear the turbos. Town of Dampier ahead, 41 kilometer’s in and a good few locks. A bakery but no other shops, pan-o-chocolates please, mercie and thank you. The towpath following the contours of the canal is a constant companion of Vive La tour! Cycling is very much a French pastime as they wave and race along the canal to the next bridge. Saint Vit sounded a very nice place to moor but no village nearby. Cruising slowly through the curved lock a group of canoeists came to play, rowing over our wake and enjoying the wash as we passed. First target of evening stay was full, one pontoon, one boat. Just ahead ay our very first tunnel. Wow, streams of Led lighst twisted above and in the middle we found a reflecting mirror, crazy stuff inside the mountain. Just beyond the tunnel it was a double day special, our first tunnel and know our first stair double lock. Gate in, hold and rise, next gate and rise again. Wow a double bouble first ever. The next target mooring was more a gypsy camp so onward, Besecon beconed with electricity and posh moorings, some wide river a little speed. Last lock to enter, the lights were out. No lights no one in. The French VNF close for the evening and the auto locks time out at seven. That was the end of a ten hour day 14 locks, 56 kilometers. We tied on the lock holding pontoon. Jobs not, clear the water strainers of green alge and then time for tea.with a vista of a mighty limestown wall topped with a giant French castle to defend against the Austrians. Besencon 47:13.32N 06:01.80E |