Grytviken for almost a month.  54.16.90S  36.30.45W

South Georgia, Southern Ocean oasis of Sub Antarctic island, Came for a week, stayed almost a month. Land of heroes, land of Shackelton. Albatros, fur seals and mighty elephant seals. Penguins of every variety and even Norwegian reindeer. Great detail in Sally Poncets visitor Guide but we had made Tim and Pauline Carrs book Antarctic Oasis our autograph memory of chums on this far away island.

A busy place, ships visiting, freight, cruise, fleet auxilery and Royal Navy. Government officers and British Antarctic scientists at King Edward Point. Yacht folk and museum staff at Grytviken, a busy island, party life in full swing. There was no remotness in South Georgia, modern hydro electric power and endless buildings and machinery from the bygone era of the whaling stations.

Yacht Hollinsclough made home at the quayside at Grytvikyn with David and his explorer motor yacht Polar Bound. Mains water all day long, washing machine in a wizz and even shore side toilets at the museum.

Sunshine in South Georgia is time to be outside. A walk to Hope Point, through King Edward Point science town to salute the cross of Shackelton. Traversing the infamous Fur Seal alley as they lounge on their tussack grass mounds. An afternoon for an exploration up Penguin river. Fur seals, King Penguins, smelly elephant seals, beach masters of monster proportions, whale bones all around, even a puma helipopter crash sight. Ron arrived on American yacht Restless. Like us he had made the trip from the Falklands.

Visit to the post office at King Edward Point, We met Ruth, the wife of Government Officer Kieron. Ruth was the postmistress but more importantly she was a former Brownie and Girl Guide, Cambridge troop, swallow patrol. She introduced us to Susan the Doctor. Yes sure enough she was also a former Brownie. British Antarctic Survey Boss Ali a former Girl Guide too.

Girl Guiding UK World Thinking year for one hundred years of celebration, best Blighty neckers for an afternoon tea party. World Guide badges honourable awarded to the southern most Guide meeting in the World.

Royal Fleet Auxiliary Wave Ruler battleship tanker arrived for a chip shop Friday lunch with the navigation officer Ben. Splendid day out followed to refuel the warship HMS York.

Wanderer Three moored amongst the pontoons with Teece and Kiki wintering for the year. HMS York in Cumberland Bay. Rev Ralph the Royal Navy padre ashore for an Ash Monday service in the church of Grytviken, White Ensign for altar cloth. Navy ashore for tea and biscuits, afternoon football match followed, Locals against the Navy, Skipper Sunray of the York joined our side to help out for almost a draw as Government Officer Robert defended to the last.

Fisheries vessel Pharos SG in the harbour. French yacht Hinayan, Jean-Yves and his family of four children arrived, golly the place was a busy marina in the Southern Ocean. A sunshine walk to Gull Lake, mind in the mountains of Snowdonia for the icy water and hydro electric supply of the island. April first for no fools day.

Good Friday, explorer cruise ship Professor Mekavich arrives for the day. Seven children for the Easter Egg hunt, almost like a school class in the Falklands. Clues all about the whaling station. Ainslie in the museum finished the hunt with a word game from the clues. The answer was British Antarctic Survey. Saturday April third for the first winter ice berg in Grytviken.

Supply Ship Ernest Shackleton arrived Easter Sunday. BAS team retiring from southern ice camps all about South Georgia. A mountain walk to Miviken on the far coast. Bog lands of the Lake District, Southern Ocean views, penguins, sooty albatross and seals for splendour of this far away place. Lunch in the survival hut. Three boys from the South Pole BAS Signey Station joined us for a snow party and penguin discussion.

Wind building we were pinned in South Georgia for a few more days. Ice in the condensation of the inside windows. Special birthday card manufacturing for Government Officer Kieron, three Jupiter years and a little older. Ron on the American yacht Restless left for the southern anchorages of the island.

Sunday outing was a walk back into the mountains with Base Doctor Susan who had all the best stops, meandering river crossings in the bay of fur seals. Very special stop for an albino seal pup then onto see the gentoo penguins. The little tykes were all moulting. Frenzy of feathers in the wind.

So close to our exit. David on Polar Bound explorer motor yacht did a Monday ferry for the Grytviken yachties to the next penguin beach. Alas we were set for packing our exit so close the grib weather files could smell it.

Southern Ocean and a big trip north before us.