Flat calm and most seven knots north in the Messier Canal for a good view of the mighty shipwreck of Bo Cotopaxi in the morning sunlight. We snuck right starboard of Williams Island for even more tide speed across Tribune Bay. An old chum on the VHF radio, Passenger ship Evangilstas.

Tribune Bay from blue water into milky white wash as we headed for our next prize. Twelve miles up into the head of the Seno Glacier. Flat water and wide open sky of bright sunshine. The blue white wonder wound its way down from the horizon. We passed through a great deal of melt water and made two more miles to the face. Bergs carved before our eyes in thunderous crashes. Nature at its might. Ice so blue Dulux would have painted it Mallard. Strata lines of millennia marked out clear as jam in a cake. Not a road, airport or tourist in sight.

Sail yacht Hollinsclough lay silent, motor of and time for lunch as we silently drifted down the ice pack. 48.43.50 S  73.58.00 W

Opening back into the main canal the water parted, blue Pacific and white ice melt like as clear as a line on a map.