Astra
Blog: Panama
Canal Transit and George’s Birthday 17/04/08 –
23/04/08
The Transit!
From Thursday 17th we had allowed 3 days
before transiting the Canal which Jeremy had cleverly arranged to take place on
George’s birthday, April 20th. As our original date was the
24th which was moved forward to the 22nd which, in turn,
was advanced to the 20th, we were not unduly surprised when we
received a phone call asking if we would be prepared to transit on the next day,
the 18th. With a view to gaining a couple of extra days in the
Pacific, Jeremy accepted. Jeremy
and Ash readied the boat whilst Sally and George made numerous heavy-laden
shopping trips to keep us going for the next few months. It was a frantic 24
hours, but somehow we managed to get all the provisioning done and stowed away,
all the ‘boat jobs’ done and acquire an extra line-handler, the affable Graham.
Leaving Shelter Bay for the last time we pottered out to
the flats and awaited our Advisor (it is required that every vessel should have
one) and the other boats with which we were to raft. In due time, Frank our
advisor arrived and we met Tesero (a
52ft sports fishing boat) and Melopee
(a 30ft tiddler). We then made our way to the first of the Gatún Locks, rafting
up just before dark: we rafted to Tesoro’s starboard side and Melopee tied up to Tesoro’s port side. This created a
slight imbalance as Astra at 32
tonnes was a little heavier than Melopee
at 1 tonne, but Tesero with her
twin props and some assistance from Astra managed tolerably well.
The Gatún Locks are the largest in the world and raised
Astra 85ft in 3 stages to the level
of Lake Gatún where we stayed overnight. In
order to get our locklines, the men assisting us through the locks threw down
heaving lines armed with monkey fists for us to attach our 125 foot locklines.
In the first lock a lock assistant managed to strike Sally on the backside with
a monkey fist from a distance of about 30 feet; in the second, Graham received a
resounding crack on the bonce from a range of about 60 feet. Dangerous things
these monkey fists!
The first lock was fairly intimidating, we entered the
1000ft long 106ft wide chamber behind a “medium” sized cargo ship. Our locklines went up almost vertically
and as water started to surge into the lock to raise us, they came under some
serious tension (52million gallons of water is required to move one ship from
the Atlantic to the Pacific or vice
versa). Thankfully our lines held
and as the water level in the lock rose rapidly, the line handlers hauled in on
them to maintain this tension thus keeping the yachts in position and away from
the walls of the lock. When the
lock was full, the gates opened and the ship ahead of us moved out causing a
huge amount of turbulence as she did so.
This procedure had to be repeated three times in a row to reach
Gatún
Lake. Apart from one or two anxious moments,
the evening trip up went very smoothly; in fact it went so slickly that Jeremy
and Frank (our advisor) were able to have a large dinner while we were in lock
3!
On leaving the third lock we entered Gatún Lake where we were to spend the
night. Tesero left us at this point and sped
off into the darkness as they were to complete their transit in one night. This left us and the “little nipper” (Melopee) to moor up to an enormous buoy
for the night, which was extremely peaceful until we arrived and threw a party.
At this point Frank was picked up
by a pilot boat never to be seen again.
At 7am we were awoken by the sound of the pilot boat
delivering our new advisor. He was
a very friendly chap called René who was in fact a proper pilot who worked in
the office; he had very kindly nominated himself for the job on double pay to
fill in for somebody. We set off at
speed in order to motor the 30 miles across Gatún Lake in time for our 11.40 entrance to
Pedro Miguel Lock. Unfortunately it
became clear that Melopee for some
reason could not or would not motor at more than 3 knots. So after some discussion we took them in
tow behind Astra and proceeded at
about 7 knots with Melopee
practically under water!
As we went along enjoying the impressive scenery, Renée
read the newspaper and we managed to squeeze a cheeky game of scrabble in before
a large “Full English Breakfast” at 10.30.
We only just managed to devour this sumptuous feast before it was time to
secure the “little nipper” alongside and enter the next lock. This time Sally and George were also
pressed into service as line handlers as all four lock lines would have to be
controlled by Astra. Ash and Sally managed the stern lines
while George and Graham gave almost their full attention to the bow lines. In this lock we dropped 31 feet down to
Miraflores
Lake. Then we had to motor 1 mile to the next
lock where a double lockage system (complete with large spectator building!?)
lowered us a further 54 feet to the Pacific, the final lock gates opened and we
were through to the Pacific!
Once clear of the channel a pilot boat picked up Renée
and we cast off Melopee quickly
leaving them behind. All appeared
to be going fantastically until we noticed that our pilot had left his high-tech
radio on board. So we spun round
and charged back towards the canal.
Finally we managed to track down a rather embarrassed but grateful pilot
in the official ACP Pilot building, then we headed off towards Balboa Yacht
Club. Somehow we still managed to
arrive there at the same time as Melopee!? Anyway it was there that we got rid of
the huge tyres and locklines which Stanley had acquired for us and Astra once again looked like a yacht
rather than a working tug boat. We
were informed that there were no mooring buoys spare and that we would have to
anchor at the other end of the causeway.
This turned out to be much better as there were several restaurants and
bars to keep us amused in between bouts of provisioning.
Ash, George and Graham (who had decided to stick around
for George’s birthday) wasted no time in heading for their favorite haunts in
Panama
City.
Returning at 4am they (Ash and George that is…Graham was not seen for
another 14 hours!) were somewhat surprised to find Jeremy and Sally wide awake,
but it afforded us the opportunity to give George his present: a video cable to
allow us to watch films from his iPod on the widescreen. This was immediately put to use with a
showing of “Anchorman”!
The following evening Sally and Jeremy took us all out
for dinner to celebrate George’s birthday (and Ash’s belated birthday). It was a delicious meal and a great time
was had by all, before tired and bursting at the seams, we headed back to Astra for some much needed
rest.
In the morning, Graham said his goodbyes and for some
crazy reason headed back to Colón!?
The rest of the time was taken up by making several sorties a day into
the centre to purchase the entire Central American supply of Gin, Rum, fishing
lures and Manchego cheese! Our original plan to depart for the Galapagos on the
evening of the 22nd was scuppered by an unhelpful individual who
would not give us the dinghy propeller we had ordered because although it was in
the shop, he had not yet checked it in!?
Ridiculous. Anyway after
Jeremy had had a drink to calm down, we decided to pick it up in the morning and
then head straight off.
We are pleased to report that Astra and her four crew members departed
for the Galapagos at 1347 local time today
(23/04).
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Diary Entries
- 2008
- Jul 2008
- Wed 16 Jul
- Mon 14 Jul
- Sat 12 Jul
- Fri 11 Jul
-
Alex and Maruus (spelling?), Fakarava, 08.07.08
-
Sally with pearl oysters collected snorkelling 08.07.08
-
J, C, A & G bbq, Kauehi 04.07.08
-
Jeremy, Charles, Ash and George BBQ Kauehi, Tuamotu 4.7.08
-
Sunset, Kauehi 04.07.08
-
Charlie beach bbq, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
J, C, A & G drift snorkel in Passe Tapuhiria 02.07.08
-
A motu at Passe Tapuhiria, Makemo 02.07.08
-
Charlie in Passe Tapuhiria, Makemo 02.07.08
-
Ash untangles coral head from anchor chain, Makemo, T 28.06.08
-
Coral head hauled up outside Makemo, T 28.06.08
-
George with 2 skipjack tuna caught between Marquesas and Tuamotu Islands 23.06.08
-
Pygmy orcas, NH 19.06.08
-
Pygmy orcas, NH 19.06.08
-
Tetamanu village, F 10.07.08
-
Napoleon fish, F 10.07
-
Very inquisitive black tip shark, Passe Tumakohua, F 10.07.08
-
Dinner with Mahini, F 10.07.08
-
George snorkelling with black tip, Passe Tumakohua, F 10.07.08
-
What fish is this? Passe Tumakohua, F 10.07.08
-
Black tip, F 10.07.08
-
Tetamanu village, F 10.07.08
-
Napoleon fish, F 10.07
-
George, Charlie & Ash on old road, Tetamanu, F 10.07.08
-
Bouy from pearl farm now in church, Tetamanu, F 10.07.08
-
Church, Tetamanu village, F 10.07.08
-
Black tips swimming in shallows, Passe Tumakohua, F 10.07.08
-
Cone shell, F 08.07.08
-
Unidentified critter seen snorkelling, Rotoava, F 05.07.08
-
Giant moray, Rotoava, Fakarava 06.07.08
-
Sally Drift Dive in pass Fakarava, Tuamotu 7.7.08
-
Nassau grouper, Passe Garuae, Fakarava, T 07.07.08
-
Ash drift diving in Passe Garuae, Fakarava, T 07.07.08
-
Sally diving outside Passe Garuae, Fakarava, T 07.07.08
-
Black tip shark, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
Black tip shark, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
Sally takes a tentative look at the sharks, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
Charlie snorkelling, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
George signals shark, Kauehi, T 04.07.08
-
Deadly lion fish, Makemo 01.07.08
-
Grey reef shark, Makemo 01.07.08
-
Ash and George diving outside Passe Arikitamiso, Makemo, T 01.07.08
-
George is introduced to Polynesian dance 28.06.08
-
Jeremy, Charlie & George wear the traditional Tiari flower, Makemo, T 28.06.08
-
Ash, George & Charlie with Regis & Regis, Tuamotus 26.06.08
-
Raroia, Tuamotus 26.06.08
-
Men folk of Raroia throwing spears at a coconut 25.06.08
-
The target, Roroia, Tuamotus 25.06.08
-
George and Ash catch a jack trolling from tender, NH 22.06.08
-
Sally, Ash & George at base of Vaipo falls, NH 22.06.08
-
George and Ash cross river on way to Vaipo falls, NH 21.06.08
-
Sally on trek to Vaipo falls, NH 21.06.08
-
Marquesan garden, Anse Hakatea 21.06.08
-
Marquesan Tiki, Anse Hakatea, NH 21.06.08
-
Marquesan chapel, Anse Hakatea, NH 21.06.08
-
Marquesan dancers 20.06.08
-
Marquesan dancers 20.06.08
-
Marquesan dancers 20.06.07
-
Marquesan dancers, Nuku Hiva 20.06.08
-
Jeremy, Charlie, Ash & George at Kaikai 20.06.08
-
Marquesan Kaikai, Nuku Hiva 20.06.08
-
Pig roast, Nuku Hiva 20.06.08
-
Ash swimming with pygmy orcas 19.06.08
-
Pygmy orcas, Nuku Hiva 19.06.08
- Wed 09 Jul
- Fri 04 Jul
- Jun 2008
- Wed 25 Jun
- Wed 18 Jun
-
view 11mile hike on Fatu Hiva, Marquesas 5th June
-
flat trees 11mile hike on Fatu Hiva, Marquesas 5th June
-
Ash contemplates the view, Hakahau, Ua Pou 15.06.08
-
What sort of fish is this? Caught and released unhurt, Ua Pou 14.06.08
-
Beetle infestation, Hanamenu 14.06.08
-
Jeremy prising apart a coconut, Hanamenu 13.06.08
-
George's lovely bunch of coconuts 13.06.08
-
Ash and George have a very chilly dip! 13.06.08
-
Entering Hanamenu Bay, Hiva Oa 13.06.08
-
Paul Gaugin's grave, Hiva Oa 12.06.08
-
Astra, Bay of Penises (Hanavave), Fatu Hiva 06.06.08
-
Caveman, Omoa, Fatu Hiva 05.06.08
-
Ash woken to retrieve anchor 01.06.08
-
Strummer Rescue 2 01.06.08
-
Ua Pou's dramatic skyline 15.06.08
-
Yellow fin tuna caught in Bordelais Channel 13.06.08
-
Beach BBQ, Hana Moe Noa, Tahuata 10.06.08
-
Strummer rescue 1 01.06.08
-
Violent gusts while rounding south west tip of Tahuata 07.06.08
-
Astra at anchor in Hanavave Bay 05.06.08
-
Sally, 11 mile hike from Omoa to Hanavave 05.06.08
-
Outrigger Canoe, Omoa, Fatu Hiva 05.06.08
-
Vai'e'enui Falls, Fatu Hiva 04.06.08
-
Sally in traditional guise, Fatu Hiva 04.06.08
-
Jeremy, trek to Vai'e'enui Falls 04.06.08
-
Well travelled red duster 03.06.08
-
Approach to Hanavave Bay, Fatu Hiva 03.06.08
- Fri 13 Jun
- Thu 12 Jun
- Tue 10 Jun
- May 2008
- Thu 29 May
- Tue 27 May
- Mon 26 May
- Sun 25 May
- Fri 23 May
- Tue 20 May
- Mon 19 May
- Sat 17 May
- Tue 13 May
- Wed 07 May
- Mon 05 May
- Fri 02 May
- Apr 2008
- Wed 23 Apr
- Sat 19 Apr
- Fri 18 Apr
- Mar 2008
- Thu 27 Mar
- Sun 23 Mar
- Sat 22 Mar
- Fri 21 Mar
- Thu 20 Mar
- Wed 19 Mar
- Mon 17 Mar
- Sun 16 Mar
- Sat 15 Mar
-
Achitupu, Kuna Yala settlement, San Blas, 15th March
-
Dolphin Island Resort, Achitupu, San Blas 15th March
-
Kuna children, Mamitupa, San Blas 15th March
-
Ash guides Astra through the coral, 15th March
-
Kuna canoe, San Blas Islands,Panama 15th March
- Fri 14 Mar
- Thu 13 Mar
- Wed 12 Mar
- Tue 11 Mar
- Mon 10 Mar
- Fri 07 Mar
- Wed 05 Mar
- Tue 04 Mar
- Mon 03 Mar
- Sun 02 Mar
-
Nicky Singing, The Last Resort, Trellis Bay, BVI 2nd March
-
Dancing at The Last Resort, Trellis Bay, BVI 2nd March
-
Birthday Celebrations for the Twins, The Last Resort, BVI 2nd March
-
Rudd family dinner at the Last Resort, Trellis Bay, BVI 2nd March
-
Marina Cay- BVI, George checks out Phone Box 2nd March
-
Marina Cay, Red Phone box... 2nd March
- Sat 01 Mar
- Feb 2008
- Fri 29 Feb
- Wed 27 Feb
- Tue 26 Feb
- Mon 25 Feb
- Sun 24 Feb
- Sat 23 Feb
-
Jeremy receives the Spirit of Swan award, Swan Rendez Vous, BVI 23rd Feb
-
Ashley Rudd wins first Prize in the Laser competition 23rd Feb
-
George Beckley, wins first prize in the Boules competition 23 Feb
-
Sally gets the 2nd Prize for the Race to Jost Van Dyke, 23 Feb
-
Norah Hickman and Sally, Round Virgin Gorda Race 23 Feb
-
Astra, Race Crew, for Round Virgin Gorda Race 23 Feb
-
Astra, Round Virgin Gorda Race, Swan Rendez Vous 23rd Feb
-
Astra, Round Virgin Gorda race, Swan Rendez Vous 23 Feb
-
Swan Rendez vous - round Virgin Gorda race crew 23 Feb
- Wed 20 Feb
- Tue 19 Feb
- Mon 18 Feb
- Sat 09 Feb
- Wed 06 Feb
- Sat 02 Feb
- Jan 2008
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