25th April - Bermuda 32:22.805N 064:40.407W
Whisper
Noel Dilly
Fri 26 Apr 2013 17:36
"23-26th April - St George's Bay"
Our R&R seems to have been preceded by Recovery! The climate here
is considerably cooler than we have been used to and since our arrival there has
been plenty of wind and rain. Going ashore has meant digging out our
foulies and risking life and limb clambering out of the dinghy onto high sided
concrete wharves with slippery steps, whilst being tossed about in the swell and
then returning to Whisper at anchor in quite heavy seas, clambering
back onboard whilst trying to keep the daily rations of shopping dry as the
swell slops in-between Rustle and Whisper. Somehow, snoozing in comfort on
board has been a more favourable pastime!
The town of St George is a UNESCO Heritage site and steeped in
history. The town was the first settlement on the island and was the
islands capital for more than 200 years. It is very quaint and attractive
with narrow streets and pretty coloured buildings, all with the
same traditional Bermudan architecture of white limestone roofs.
Bermuda has no natural water reserves, rivers or lakes, all the islands
water is sourced via its rainfall. The water is purified by the lime wash
on the roofs and collected via the glides or gutters directing the water
into storage tanks either above or below the ground. The white roofs also
help to keep the houses cool by reflecting the sunlight and the wooden shutters
give protection from the elements and also keep the house cool in the
summer. The town has undergone massive renovation and the streets are full
of restaurants, shops, artists galleries, gift shops and museums.
Most days there is a historical re-enactment when the Town Crier in all his
splendid regalia metes out punishment on the Town Drunk and the Town Gossip by
sitting them on the end of a 'dunking stool' (like a long see-saw), which is
hung over the jetty and the punishment is tipping them down unceremoniously into
the waters below and hoisting them up again only to dunk them again if they
continue to give abuse and remain unrepentant. This activity is
particularly noisy and generates quite a crowd of sightseers.
Yesterday, we watched the Peppercorn Ceremony in the town square.
This ceremony dates back to 1816 when the Bermuda Government moved
from St George to the new capital of Hamilton. The State House which was
the scene of meetings of the Queen's Council and site of many official functions
was given to the Town Mayor and Council in trust for the St George Freemason
Lodge for the annual rent of one peppercorn. Every year the rent is paid
at this traditional ceremony and remains one sole peppercorn. The town
square was awash with colour, the Governor and Council and many dignitaries
attended, everybody dressed in their spotless uniforms, ladies in their best
hats and dresses Ascot style. The Bermuda Regiment were splendid in their
white uniforms and helmets, their instruments glistening in the sunlight, whilst
the Bermuda Rifles in their red uniforms smartly executed their rifle
drills. The many Freemasons of the St George Lodge attended wearing
their aprons decorated according to their rank and station. The local
primary school children in their colourful school uniforms lined the
square, some of the older ones responsibly handing out leaflets to the
gathering crowds. St George is twinned with Lyme Regis, the link being
that Admiral George Somers had claimed Bermuda for the Crown and as he was born
in Lyme Regis and had been the Mayor there and was later to become the Mayor of
St George. The present Mayoress of Lyme Regis and the towns Town
Crier also attended the ceremony. Fortunately the rain which was
threatening held off until the end, but the following feast had
to be held in the Cruise Ship Terminal whilst the heavens opened up.
We managed to meet up with an old Bermudan friend of Noel's, who was more
than surprised that we have sailed here. He has a mooring which we can use
just off his property on one of the small islands in Hamilton Sound, which will
be lovely for us. He is going to pilot us round there early next week
which will be exciting as we will take a cut through from this bay to the other
side of the island, which entails going through a narrow swing
bridge. |