42:36.273N 008:56.055W
Whisper
Noel Dilly
Sat 11 Aug 2012 13:12
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We left Aldan bound for the island of Salvora, it
was once again foggy (evidently it is not uncommon during the summer months in
these parts), a gentle breeze got up and as visibility was not too bad we were
able to set the sails and cut the noisy engine. It was just a pity that the
views of the landscape were hidden from us but our trusty Navman (now nicknamed
Norman as this tablet has changed my writing yet again!),at least allowed us to
see where it should be! Salvora is also part of the National Park and protected.
However we were given permission to land and walk to the lighthouse. Unsure of
the exact location of the bay we were to anchor in and only just able lo see the
island and rocks made arriving at the island quite exciting. We knew
that several of our party were in front of us so hopefully we would
recognise them. As we approached and visibility improved we could see
yachts at anchor. We tried to reconcile the poor quality black and white
photocopy of a sketch of the bay with the view we could see. We crept in closer,
Norman giving us the name of the bay and the sketch another. We recognised one
of the yachts, this must be it we hoped and sure enough as we crept in
behind the other yachts to drop our anchor the details of the sketch became
clear.
The island is beautiful, the highest point only
73m, there are few trees but a lot of low vegetation with huge granite boulders
everywhere, a young boys paradise. The grey rocks stand out on the green
shrubland and greenish blue of the sea.The island is home lo many seabirds, we
saw several young fledglings calling for more food. There are
oystercatchers here, crested cormorants,curlew, terns, nasty skuas (they attack
other birds and make them vomit their fish up!)and even Buteo so it cannot be
too easy to raise a rest of chicks here.
We took a stroll up to the lighthouse and met the
young shy warden on his way down the path on his bicycle. He handed as
information leaflets about the island and told us that the path to the
ancient hamlet of Salvora was closed but that he could guide us at 7pm when he
had finished his work. I think 'work' was probably another word for 'siesta' as
it was nearly 3pm.The small settlement was dedicated to producing salt but in
the 20th century it was requisitioned by the Spanish army who built the small
quay. The island is now owned by an aristocratic family but it no longer has any
permanent in habitants.
We set off for our next overnight stop at Puebla
del Caraminal 'the sun shone, the fog had lifted and the wind had dropped. It
seems that there is no pleasing us mariners? We arrived at the marina to a ten
round of canon fire which whistled over our heads before exploding high in the
air beyond leaving small white puffs in the blue
cloudless sky. We walked into the town, its streets crowded with happy babbling
families enjoying the warm evening and found a much frequented restaurant for
dinner. There was a large screen so that in between, chatting, people
watching, listening to the bagpipes and band of a passing procession
we were able to catch upon the Olympics. Spain is so full of a
happy atmosphere that it is hard to believe that they have such a financial
crisis. Perhaps it a country of optimism or could it be the warm sunny
climate?
Photograph: "Quiet Anchorage at Isla de Salvora
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