Gibraltar - Gateway to the Med
Position:
36:07:58N 05:21:52W
Gibraltar
Ocean Marina gave us our mooring number and said there would be someone to help us dock “Mediterranean” style. (For non-sailors this means that the berth has NO pontoons. Boats just ‘hang-on’ by the ‘bow’ or the ‘aft’ and anchor out the opposite end.) Here we go with another first in this boat. We
went into our berth ‘bow first’ like all the other yachts and it was uneventful.
(Like all things in life. Take a big breath, shut your eyes, and just ‘do
it’.) We
met several lovely people who were in transit from the Med back to England or to
the Canaries for an Atlantic sail.
Gibraltar
is a safe transit stop as you wait for the weather perfect for your needs. Most
of the people we met had been there for at least 10 days due to the winds coming
from the wrong direction and were desperate to move on. A couple of nights would be perfect in
Gibraltar, but... The Rock has plenty of history and we took a personalized taxi tour around. This again was well worth it. Spain ceded Gibraltar to England hundreds of years ago as part of a treaty. It’s importance to Britain was as a strategic position to hold. During
British occupation the British have dug an amazing 32 miles of tunnels
underneath the rock housing all sorts of military equipment. You don’t see any
of this but you are shown the first tunnels that were built to house cannons to
fire on Spain. They had to haul
these cannons up the rock - fascinating.
Gibraltar has some beautiful caves which they have now made into an
auditorium. Elaine Page sang here recently it must have been wonderful to hear
her with these acoustics. If
ever they leave Gibraltar the superstition is that England will fall. Our
taxi driver stroke tour guide knows them well. The monkeys that is. He had one
sitting at his front window eating a piece of pasta. As we moved on up the
mountain (where the views are stunning) he opened the windows just a bit
further. Hmmm.. John starts to cower in the back seat. We survived! More recently, the Spanish back in 1967 put a modern day siege on Gibraltar. The border with Spain was closed – period. (I think they are upset to have given this rock away to Britain. It’s ONLY a rock guys! Come on!). For 16 years the only entry was by ship or plane. As a result, no more Spanish workers could cross the border. Moroccan workers replaced the Spanish workers and are now firmed established here. They have built a lovely Mosque at Europa point for the new workers that come from Morocco. I think the net result of the siege was a loss of prosperity and jobs for the Spanish, an increase in prosperity for the Moroccans, even greater insulation from Spain for the Gibraltarian economy and even greater allegiance to Britain by the average Gibraltarian than ever before. As our taxi driver pointed out to us, “only 40 traitors voted to join Spain out of 20,000 voters at the referendum”. Even today the politicians in Spain want England to give it back. For the Spanish politician the subject has become the ‘sacred cow’ (rather like the NHS in Canada – no logic, but plenty of scaremongering). Immigration and customs can be very funny at the border and can hold you up for the slightest reason. |