15:49S 145:07W

 

Sometimes we really have to pinch ourselves to believe we have come to places so beautiful they feel like an illusion.  Kauehi, in the Tuamoto Archipelago, is one of those places – so stunningly beautiful, exceptionally remote and absolutely picture postcard perfect it would be easy to think it is a mirage.  Think azure and turquoise water, brilliant blue sky with puffy trade wind clouds, white sandy beaches, swaying coconut palm trees and you’re nearly there.  This really is magical – one of the nicest spots we have been – as beautiful as both the San Blas Islands but without the rubbish (these Polynesian towns are spic and span) and Venezuela’s Los Rocques without the danger element from pirates.

 

We spotted the low lying atoll of Kauehi as soon as it was light – around 5.30am - and approached the notorious entry through the reef a few hours later.  I say notorious because these passes are often narrow and shallow with a huge current running through.  We’d timed our arrival to coincide with slack water and it was relatively straightforward although a little turbulent where the current met the wind.  We had almost perfect conditions with just 15knots of wind and clear skies – certainly wouldn’t have wanted any more wind. 

 

The anchorage is at the other end of the atoll and we had a perfect sail across the lagoon– a constant 15 knots on the beam in flat water.  Coming through the pass we hooked a big fish and it took two of us to land it.  As cigatuera is prevalent in these waters we took it ashore to ask local advice and were told “ne c’est bon”....or something similar – our French is hopeless.  The variety of fish was fine, but our expert fisherman feared ciguatera because it was hardening....apparently a sign.  We accepted his decision – ciguatera is  a nasty toxin that accumulates in reef fish and can cause severe poisoning.  He had other fish he offered us for sale and we said we’d come back tomorrow.  And yes, we kept our cynical (he’ll sell us our own fish) thoughts to ourselves.

 

Friends Chris and Sarah on Tulu are anchored nearby and we’re going there for a very early sundowner.....and think we’ll be in bed shortly after.