16:35N 23:31W

 

After four days on the island of Sal in the Cape Verdes – three in the port of Palmeira and one at anchor in Baia da Mordeira – we upped anchor at 3am this morning to sail to the next island west, Sao Nicolau.  It’s 86miles and we figured that it would take us  roughly 14 hours doing 5 knots.  But so far, our average speed has been 7 knots so we’ll be there well ahead of schedule.  Conditions are pretty awful – 2m confused swell, 15 knots of wind from behind and Bandit is rolling like a rocking horse.  Oh for some flat sea sailing or a boat that doesn’t roll!  (note to skipper – can yachts have stabilizers?)

 

Sal is described as the least attractive of the Cape Verdes and I have to agree.  Charles Darwin, who visited in 1832, remarked on the “utterly sterile” landscape.  Afforestation, overgrazing and years of drought have taken its toll and it’s a bleak, windswept and barren spot.  Worst of all is the awful haze that covers the island and its environs when it’s windy, reducing visibility to about a mile.  The fine dust covers everything including the sun meaning the days are gloomy.  Bandit looks like she’s been driven to the Molesworth and back!  It’s similar to the dust we had down the Moroccon coast which inspires today’s movie title – Out of Africa.  Whether the dust is from Sal or the Sahara and hence Out of Africa, we’ve had enough!  The other islands are said to be greener so we hope the air there is also clearer.

 

The port of Palmeira was an intriguing spot although not one we wanted to linger.  There was little ashore apart from a few shops and bars.  Unemployment is a huge issue as is poverty.  Dozens of teenage girls wandered the streets with babies on their hips while scruffy kids, who should be at school, hung around the port hoping for a tip from yachtie coming ashore. Dozens of mangy dogs were everywhere – it had a real third world feel about it.  The people, while colourful, were distinctly unfriendly and disdainful toward us.  The south of Sal is far more developed with tourist resorts, windsurfing beaches, nightclubs, bars and restaurants.  We were going to take a bus there, but when we saw the Thomson charter plane fly in (probably straight from Manchester) we decided not to.  A wise decision I feel.  The beaches on Sal are beautiful – acres of white sand and crystal clear water.   But the constant wind and dust makes them less appealing somehow.

 

The anchorage was full of cruising boats – many on their way to or from Senegal or The Gambia.  We were the only Kiwi boat there and one afternoon we heard a shout from a huge barge working on a pipeline in the harbour.  “You’re a long way from home,” a chap in red overalls called down to us.  “Judging by your accent, so are you,” replied David.  Turned out he was from Tauranga and working as divemaster on the Spanish registered barge.  You don’t have to go far in this world to find a Kiwi!