Far from the Madding Crowd
Bandit
David Morgan and Brenda Webb
Thu 15 Mar 2012 14:13
12:02N 67:50W
Having
spent the past two weeks as far from the madding crowds as you can get – we are
really excited about reaching civilization this afternoon We’re on our way
to Bonaire, one of the Dutch Antilles ABC islands (the others being Aruba and
Curacao), having left Aves de Sotavento at 9am this morning. It’s two
weeks since we’ve been into a supermarket, looked at the internet, had a latte
or beer out, read an up to date newspaper and spoken to anyone except our
sailing companions Mark and Amanda on Balvenie, a couple of Swedish cruisers we
briefly met in El Gran Roque.....and the odd Venezuelan fisherman although the
language barrier meant it was a sign language conversation! The remoteness
and solitude has been absolutely wonderful but we’re both more than ready to get
back to reality......read the news and catch up on life.
We’ve been
surprised at how few cruising boats and people we’ve seen since leaving
Grenada. The beautiful Venezuelan islands of Blanquilla, Los Roques and
Las Aves were all virtually deserted. We only shared three anchorages with
other boats – the rest of the time it was just us, Balvenie and perhaps a
friendly fishermen, some of whom even generously handed over their catch.
Yesterday we had no need of that as the minute Bandit left Ave de Barlovento the
fishing line began screeching. We’d hooked five barracuda the day before
so we were hoping for some variety. You can eat the smaller barracuda over
here (they’re delicious) but the ones we hooked were all huge. We were
thrilled to find tuna on the end of the line and took two lovely fish on board,
losing the third. Sashimi on the beach with Balvenie watching the sunset
was magical and the grilled tuna fillets were even better. Sadly, due to
Bandit’s supplies of fresh fruit and vegetables being dangerously low, the
accompanying cabbage was a little disappointing!
The best
part of the past two weeks has been the magnificent snorkelling.
Blanquilla was fantastic with some lovely coral and dozens of fish but Los
Roques definitely was the best with water clarity that was amazing. The
past two days we’ve snorkelled on the many reefs that dot the Aves and it’s also
been excellent. Yesterday we found a huge live conch....we’ve collected
many discarded shells on our travels....but this one was very much alive.
The shell was intact and the most amazing shiny pink but we couldn’t possibly
take him, so let him continue his slow crawl along the seabed.
We’re
relieved to be safely out of Venezuelan waters. On our regular evening
“sundowners on the beach” with Balvenie, we’ve commented on how much safer we
feel travelling together and how nervous we would be on our own. While Los
Roques and Las Aves are fairly well north of the Venezuelan coast, with few
reported piracy incidents, we’ve been in what many regard as troubled waters
which is why we figure not many come here. Such a shame as they really are
a piece of paradise.
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