00:53S 89:36W

 

Nothing like a good old drama to set hearts racing, raise adrenaline levels and provide mid ocean dilemmas.  There we were having the most wonderful spinnaker sail along the north coast of the Galapagos island of Cristobal, eating fresh tuna we’d caught that day and watching the amazing manta rays and glide by, their wings glinting in the late afternoon sunlight.  We’d already been greeted by a school of sea lions, loads of friendly dolphins, an inquisitive hammerhead shark that sat in our bow wake for a while and hundreds of sea birds.  The Galapagos were proving to be every bit as fascinating as everyone said and we were looking forward to reaching Isabella.  But then the drama unfolded that caused untold panic. Fellow yacht Shakti came up on our evening SSB net from Isabella saying they had been refused entry and had to leave within 24 hours without setting foot ashore.  Their only option was to declare an emergency (medical or mechanical).   Luckily (or unluckily) they had a dodgy auto pilot so used that as their excuse but had to face a visit from a mechanic.  Their warning came at a crucial time – we could easily turn and go into the anchorage at Cristobal where the rest of the Australian fleet were anchored – or trudge on and risk it in Isabella.  Before visiting the Galapagos we’d done plenty of research about entry formalities but it was difficult to ascertain procedures as the situation was so fluid.  One yacht’s experience could not be taken as routine procedure.  Australian yacht Amiable had arrived in Isabella the week previously and been issued with their 20 day permit without problem, but apparently, a new port captain put a different interpretation on the rules, hence Shakti’s problems.

 

So – there we were, 60 miles from Isabella, eight from Cristobal (of which we had zero information) and wondering just what on earth to do.  If we proceeded to Isabella we faced the prospect of being thrown out and made to proceed to Marquesas low on fresh provisions and (most important) not mentally ready for three weeks at sea!  We were too tired after seven days at sea to come up with a medical or mechanical emergency.  If we went to nearby Cristobal we faced the same risks but we did know there was a bunch of fellow cruisers in there – none of whom had reported difficulties. We tried desperately to raise them on VHF but (as it turned out) they were all out celebrating.  We hove to for an hour while we debated what to do.   Going into Cristobal also meant a night entry which always scares the living daylights out of us!  The lovely afternoon breeze had set up a chop and heaving to was uncomfortable so, with much reluctance, we opted to forgo our choice of Isabella and head into Cristobal.

 

We anchored just on 9pm, collapsed into bed and slept like logs.  Daylight presented the same issues and once again the tension on board became palpable.  On hearing our dilemma the other boats in the anchorage were wonderful particularly Field Trip who had a Spanish speaker on board and made phone calls on our behalf and Remi De who paddled over to give us support and assure us it would all be fine.

 

The agent organised by Field Trip arrived at 10am and was incredibly friendly and helpful and (in Espanol) told us we could stay 20 days in Cristobal which would cost $715- far less than we had expected to pay in Isabella.  Within an hour she had organised a stream of officials to come on board and inspect Bandit.  We had quarantine, health, immigration, port captain, marine police plus three from the national park – one of whom dived on our hull to check for growth.  They were all very friendly although it was rather alarming to have them open drawers, inspect all fruit, rubbish and take photos of everything.  They also insisted on seeing our holding tank – up with the floorboards.  We had made sure Bandit was absolutely spotless with the little rubbish we had cut up and stuffed into a small water bottle.  They seemed impressed overall and several times commented”muy bien”.

 

By midday we had our stamped passports back, were cleared to stay for our 20 days – we’re still feeling shellshocked by the whole process but just delighted to be here.  There is a chance we can apply for a permit to stop by Isabella on our way to the Marquesas – but for now we’re just happy to be on Cristobal.  David has just opened a celebratory beer – whew. We’re in the Galapagos.