San Blas islands
Simanderal
Michael Hughes and Ger White
Fri 15 Jan 2010 22:35
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We continue our relaxed journey north-west through
the islands towards Porvenir, where we clear into Panama properly. We've seen
very few other cruisers down this end of the islands--most of them stay up in
the western part, where the water is clearer and beaches better--but the Kuna
Indian traditions less pronounced as it's more spoiled by tourism--albeit
light.
So we've been visiting the traditional Kuna
islands--no phones, no running water, no electricity, houses--huts--made of
bamboo and palm fronds, traditional dress, dug-out canoes, small
shops--huts--with nothing to sell except their delicious bread--everyone very
friendly and happy and eager to talk to us--albeit language difficult! On
Monday, we sailed freom Isla Pinos to Ustupu--a 3 hour sail--and had a walk
round the village and a nice lunch in the "restaurant"--a bamboo hut with
tables. Full of smily kids laughing at us. Cost of 2 meals and 4 drinks--about
£7.
On Tuesday we sailed to Achutupu--a 2 hour
sail--and had a walk round the village and lunch in a Kuna hotel resort on
an adjacent little island--a better class of hut! And twice the price. No other
boats.
On Wednesday to Tupile--another village
walk--it doesn't have a restuarant, so lunched on board! All to ourselves--no
other boats.
Thursday--a 2 hour sail to Snug Harbour--deserted
islands so no village--though we bought some lobsters from a Kuna in a dug-out
canoe. No village walk--just a swim! And fixed the generator. Again anchorage
all to ourselved
Today is Friday--another 3 hour sail to Isla
Tigre--and again the anchorage all to ourselves. Ashore for a walk through the
village--this time we had a guide, who spoke some English--got the "restaurant"
to open to serve us bonito and chips--bought some "mola"s--a sort of reverse
applique sewing of a cloth picture.
An interesting week--next week will be all swimming
and sand in the busy sector of the islands.
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