32:22.53N 60:40.38W
St. George’s Harbour,
Bermuda.
Just a quick one (hopefully) as we are slightly in arrears with our
blogging. We awoke to a calm sunny
morning in St.George’s Harbour and started to get our bearings during a
leisurely breakfast in the cockpit.
A couple of doses of caffeine helped to kick start our tired bodies, but
it was about 10.30h before I radioed Customs to say we would bring WM over to
clear in. Again an efficient,
helpful response to say, Yes, please come alongside, we have been trying to
raise you on Channel 16 and 27 since 08.00h. Crikey, do they expect me to have the
VHF on all night?
Clearing in went smoothly, apart from the expected
$15/person fee being raised to $35, but at least the nearby anchorage was free,
and the dinghy dock was user-friendly and close to town, and we were supplied
with basic tourist information. We
anchored amongst several other yachts of all nationalities and then went ashore
to explore.
Bermuda was a new experience for Dave and me, but Pete
(globe-trotter) Sizer had been here before on holiday with Gail. He thought about 20 years ago, but after
some deliberation and research found it was in 2000 (thankyou Gail). Anyway, our first impressions were good
– all very clean and organized and ‘English’ and the natives were really
friendly. Day 1 (Thursday) was
spent gathering tourist information, checking out the supermarket (small but
fairly well stocked), the chandlers, and fuel berth in St. George’s and planning
to be tourists on the Saturday and see as much of the island as possible by
public transport. We grabbed a
take-away lunch at the local supermarket deli, a help yourself arrangement of
hot and cold food which you then pay for by weight (about $9 per pound – metric
units have not reached Bermuda). A
difficult dilemma choosing what foods represent the best value by weight – a
cunning marketing ploy I thought.
It was all tasty and very welcome as we consumed it on a bench in the
local park. Then it was off to
explore to the East of town – a sail-makers where bought a few spares for the
mainsail, followed by a half mile hike to the local Yacht Club (or so called
Dinghy Club) where most of the ARC Europe boats were berthed. Nice enough club, with several ARC
participants gazing at laptops as they used the free WIFI link. We waited 20 mins for happy hour (17.30
to 19.30h?) – a pint of Fosters at $3.75, instead of $4 – would that make YOU
happy? It was good to get a full
pint for a change, these small bottles of beer don’t even wet the sides, let
alone reach the parts. Three pints
later, having compared notes with some of the sailors, we were ready to head
back to the boat. As we passed the
East End Mini YC on the outskirts of town our thirsts needed slaking again. At the bar we started chatting to the
locals and decided against more beer, and went for the Sizer option of Dark and
Stormy, a mean little number consisting of dark rum and ginger beer (Gail’s
favourite tipple). Within 5 minutes
we had the first round paid for and the second already lined up from another guy
at the bar. In response to our mild
protestations and thanks, he said, ‘Are you here for your good looks or your
drinking?’ I also noticed that we
were the only whites in the place; this was the ‘locals’ Yacht Club – does that
set the scene. A few drinks later
we wobbled out and headed back to the supermarket where we had an unfortunate
accident with a wine bottle (won’t bore you with the details, but none went down
our throats), and then returned to the boat and some food before crashing (going
to bed).
Needless to say our planned early start to a full sight-seeing day
was neither early nor bright, but we did manage to get into town for a bus to
the capital, Hamilton, by 09.30 ish.
The journey took almost an hour, but the scenery was excellent as we
followed our route on the map.
Hamilton – a relatively big city, very clean and bustling, a mixture of
modern and colonial. We did the Art
gallery, the Cathedral, checked the big supermarket (impressive, if a little
expensive) and then jumped on the ferry to the Historic Dockyard, right at the
far western end of the island. I
forgot to mention, we bought a day pass for all public transport (buses and
ferries) for $12 each, so hoped to make the most of that. Long story short--- the Dockyard: cruise
ship, tourist shops, pubs, restaurants, museum etc. I left Pete & Dave to explore
further and bussed back to the world famous (if you’re a biologist) Marine
Biological Station near St. George’s - I was given a mini tour of the
facilities, although it was all very quiet (Friday pm?) – super place to do
research. Then I caught another bus
to meet up with the others in the Hamilton supermarket. They had seen more of the Dockyard and
visited the Gibbs lighthouse and various other bits en route. Pete & I shopped, Dave headed back
to meet up with a Land Registry colleague who was now working here on
Bermuda. Eventually we all met up
in a pub for a very pleasant meal and a few drinks – Three of us and John, + 3
friends of his. Good to get a local
take on things – although they were leading a colonial existence to some
extent. To bed – knackered.
Saturday: we all discovered that we had another
day available on the bus tickets as the drivers had punched the wrong day
(deliberately I think), but we also had a lot of other chores to sort out. Dave and Pete went off to sort out their
air tickets from the Azores via wifi at the YC, and I bought extra diesel cans
and did some boat chores. My day
was more successful than theirs – the booking of the flights turned into a 2 day
frustrating farce, but hopefully successful eventually. We took a late bus to Flatts, a
picturesque little harbour & village, and walked back towards St,George’s
along the old railway track, now an extensive footpath around the island. Dinner onboard.
Sunday: More attempts at flight booking etc.,
some last minute shopping, a major tidy up on the boat, safety equipment check,
some clothes washing, clearing out of Customs then a dash to get fuel and water
before the fuel berth closed at 16.00h.
Back to anchor again for final stowage and checks. Phew, ready or not, we must get underway
for the next leg – farewell Bermuda, Azores here we come.
Bermuda notes and
thoughts: Very pleasant island,
efficient, clean, great climate, quite a lot to see and do, museums,
exhibitions, parks, sports facilities, boats and more boats, friendly natives,
great public transport. Tidy
buildings, 90 % of houses with tiled pitched roofs covered with cement and
painted white, with walls painted in various pastel shades – yellow, pink, blue,
green, even some with rusty red, purple or turquoise. Lots of cars, but limited to one per
household and only 1800cc unless it’s commercial, plenty of scooters and
motorbikes, but again limited to 150cc – they have some very good ideas on
Bermuda – it seems to work. How
their economy works is another matter, everything is pretty expensive, but
perhaps not much more than most of the Caribbean, or Europe for that
matter. A short but pleasant visit
– we may be back.
Pete & Dave may add their take on things in a
subsequent blog – but we needed to update our readers on the passage east – read
on.
Pics: Our anchorage, St George's Harbour, WM 3rd from
right. Town Hall and school kids.
How British can you get? Stocks and Squares (and
courtesy flag).

