Side Trip by car 1) Tarpon Springs, Dunedin, St Petersburg & Clearwater
AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Wed 26 Dec 2018 16:56
In
Vero Beach – Florida
Gosh, haven’t written one of these for a long while and suspect not too
many are bothering to check for updates. So to those who are still looking us up
– thank you!
In short we did nothing by way of venturing out in the boat last winter due
to family concerns which kept us in Titusville and we flew home early in March
2018 to start the long process of helping N’s Mum into her new home after her
stroke. We returned to the boat in October this year intent on an early-ish
departure to the Bahamas. Well that was wishful thinking as the boat threw one
problem after another at us. New batteries, fridge fuse problem, holding tank
issues. Basically in our absence over the summer a bunch of Gremlins had moved
onboard along with a few live frogs thrown in for good measure. Oh! and we had a
survey called for by our insurers to add to the tedium which we decided to get
done sooner rather than later in case of serious findings. Even leaving
Titusville to head south produced another problem with the fresh water cooling
pump on the port engine producing enough noise to suggest it might self destruct
if we continued to run that engine hard. Anyway, that’s now replaced and only
weather holds us back from moving onwards as we are now well into the winter
weather routine of cold fronts with calm crossing opportunities to The Bahamas
few and far between.
We did allow ourselves a weeks excursion to Florida’s west coast to see if
we had missed anything over the years. Well, yes and no really. It was certainly
interesting in parts and it did give us a chance to catch up with some friends
at restaurants along the way which was good fun. The Gulf Coast is a long way
round by boat and so we’re pleased we jumped into a car instead. Enterprise
provided the Nissan Versa. Cost-wise the $20 per day rental doubled when the
dreaded collision damage waiver fee was added. That said, the first few miles
after leaving Titusville had us avoiding tyre remnants from a large truck that
had previously overtaken us at 60 mph before settling in two cars ahead of us
and blowing one of its tyres. So better to have total insurance cover eh?
Our first stop on the west side was Tarpon Springs – nice name although a
little short on Tarpons. What Tarpon Springs is famous for however is the large
Greek community that set up there over 100 years ago when it became known to
sponge divers in Greece that the Gulf of Mexico had loads more sponges than
little old Greece ever did. Not the Mary Berry type with a jam filling of but
the yellow things used to soak up water, wash the car and baby with etc.
Incidentally when underwater they are not the nice yellow appearance so they
need to be processed when harvested after which they take on their yellow
colour. Did you know that sponges are simple animals not plants and probably
scream whenever they are squeezed when washing the car on a Sunday morning.
(Ha)
All types of sponges adorn the numerous gift shops around the harbour. Just
across the road are the boats that go out with their divers to hunt for them.
It’s a fascinating industry dating back through the ages. Although, with the
advent of artificial sponges which most of us use for various cleaning chores,
the demand for real sponges has declined. We suspect much of the industry is now
tourist based. Our other main reason for going to a Greek fishing community? The
food of course! Real Greek food served up in a blend of Greco-American style
restaurants. The chefs have probably been to Greece at some point in their
lives, the waiters – hmm, we doubt it somehow. We undoubtedly overindulged but
who cares when you spend most of the time in rural Titusville amongst
burgers and hotdog joints.
Our new addition – A Sponge we named Bob
Tarpon Springs waterfront
Our hotel for the two nights in T.S was quite acceptable, nice comfy bed, a
million channels to choose from on the TV, many of which were focused on the sad
demise of No.41 as they affectionately called H.W Bush. They certainly gave the
man a respectful send-off and like many world leaders passing, the press mainly
focused on the positive aspects of their service to the nation.
There was an outside pool at the hotel although judging by the water level
maybe the local fire brigade had used it as a static supply tank and we weren’t
that fussed about using it. Our main frustration was at breakfast time which was
billed as a help yourself buffet. Indeed it was including scrambled egg that
could easily be sliced into segments to fit onto the toast. Sausage meat in two
different shapes flat round and traditional. Same meat though.
View from our hotel room – Capital eh?
What was really disappointing was the supply of polystyrene plates, cups
and cheap flimsy plastic cutlery. The knives in particular bent almost double
when trying to slice through the powdered scrambled egg and the white toast and
with the plate having the same consistency as its contents you were in danger of
cutting the plate in half. Placing a freshly arrived hot sausage from the
‘kitchen’ resulted in melted depressions appearing in the polystyrene. We
decided not to tamper with the waffle machine.
The dreaded breakfast offering
.......
But this was worth the visit – Greek Taramasalata – from the Gods for
lunch!
After our second night we set off towards Sarasota via Dunedin, St
Petersburg and Clearwater. Dunedin was a quaint old sea port with a quiet
friendly feel. The old railway station has been preserved and houses the museum
but was closed on the day we visited. The old track down the west Florida coast
was torn up many years ago and made into a dead-straight cycle path that runs
for miles.
Clearwater has a beautiful brilliant white sand beach where the ‘pretty
people’ hang out. We felt ancient! Pier 60 is the most famous pier (apparently)
for watching sunsets and with a west facing coast they don’t get much better. We
parked for 2 hours, ventured out onto the pier, watched the younger generation
strutting the beach taking selfies as they played with their hair. We were 40
years too late for this place so climbed back into our Corvette – sorry Nissan
Versa and drove on.
St Petersburg was more our style although with a million odd parking meters
adorning all the downtown streets with only a USA number to call to make payment
we decided to just drive round and move on across Tampa Bay and the famous
Sunshine Skyway Bridge which is ranked No.3 in the world’s top 10 bridges. Not
sure what qualifies for a top 10 bridge but for scare factor alone we put it
immediately at No.1. Given Tampa’s perfect position for a large commercial port
some pretty big ships grace its waters and so the requirement for the bridge to
be so high is beyond question The clearance to shipping is 180ft and its
not for the feint-hearted as the concrete crash barrier doesn’t seem high enough
to prevent a vehicle given a good hefty nudge from hurtling over the edge to the
passengers certain deaths. It was 3 lanes and 4 miles of devil may care driving
as we were virtually pushed across by a large private truck the size of which
meant we could only see its radiator grill in the rear view mirror. Frustrated
by the lanes either side being bumper to bumper traffic the horned driver
endeavored to improve his transit time by intimidating two Brits in a humble
Nissan. God! it looked a long way down when daring to take your eyes off the
road and the car in front!
That bridge!
Our next hotel in Sarasota was similar to the first but with a welcome
larger bedroom, pool, same TV channels and yes the same disappointing breakfast
with the same supplier of cutlery and crockery as the last. If plastic-ware is
the norm in hotels compared in price to Travelodge and Holiday Inn back home
what on earth do they supply in cheap motels? There was no scrambled egg this
time. Instead there was a mountain of hard boiled eggs, although the one N had
was far from hard. On a more sinister note (and we are not eco warriors hell
bent on saving the planet) what was obvious was the sheer amount of single use
plastic that filled the garbage bins in both locations. If there is an
anti-plastic revolution going on over here we’ve missed it. As there was no
dinner restaurant in the hotel (neither of them actually offered dinner) we
opted to eat at a Mexican diner just a few yards from the hotel which had really
good food served by a young waitress who had ambitions to be a realtor (estate
agent) but amazingly had never actually heard of Cape Canaveral. Maybe it was
our pronunciation?
To be
continued |