In the Western Coco Banderos Cays - San Blas
AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Mon 26 Mar 2012 17:14
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In position 09:31.176N, 078:38.961W
Finally the weather had decided to brighten up and do what
it's supposed to do at this time of the year. Unfortunately our good
friends on 'Soul Mates' have just departed for Jamaica. As
the Coco Banderos Cays are so beautiful we decided to stay a couple of days
longer until we run out of something we really need. Then we will have to head
back to Nargana to obtain supplies. Luckily some boxed wine and bread rolls
were provided, at a price of course, courtesy of 'underpant
man'. He is one of the Kunas we so nick-named as his underpants are always
showing above his shorts, assuming he has any shorts on in the first place!
He plies his trade selling whatever the cruisers may need by way of provisions
which are stacked into his outboard powered ulu. The bread rolls were certainly
welcome. Skip had just attempted making 'soda bread' rolls for the first
time having had reasonable success with his first ever bread loaf made
with yeast a week or so back. Unfortunately his 'rolls' looked like scones
and could have been used by Nelson as grape-shot against the French. Fortunately
he does have his uses in the fishing department and just as we were deliberating
as to what type of curry to cook yesterday evening two very good sized fish
kindly offered themselves up to the morsels of tuna adorning the fishing hook.
So curry was cancelled as we picked over the barbecue grilled fish with rice and
salad. A very healthy meal!
The end of the dry season approacheth - the driest
time of year in the Caribbean being from December to April. Many of the
yachts that spend that period here as an alternative to the USA or
Canada are preparing to lay their boats up either in Panamarina just west
along the coast near Isla Lynton or in Shelter Bay Marina in Colon. However,
others arrive from the eastern and north-western Caribbean keeping the
total number of yachts cruising in these islands at around 120 or so. Some
of these craft will be transiting the canal and moving into the
Pacific but opt to spend a few weeks in the islands before heading to Colon
where the Canal's Caribbean entrance is located.
With the improvement in the weather we've been able to
spend quite a few hours snorkelling recently, with the water
temperature hovering just below 30 degrees C. Even then we don wet suits as
we are often in for an hour or two which can surprisingly bring the body
temperature down enough to feel a little chilly. The suits also double as
protection against any sharp coral we may encounter. The
nearby reefs contain a wonderful variety of exotic colourful fish with
the occasional sighting of something larger. Yesterday we saw a
Barracuda which was certainly not a threat due to its small size however on
rounding a corner on the reef the unmistakable outline of a largish shark of
unknown species was seen. The 'Admiral' immediately grasped one of Skip's
legs for security (?) but it was not shark feeding time and it showed
no interest in either us or any of the more regular members of it's diet as it
lazily swam away into the distance. With the 'Admiral's' grip released Skip
was then able to fin unhindered further around the reef followed at a
respectable distance by the 'Admiral' who had now amazingly developed 360 degree
vision. Has anyone ever though of installing wing mirrors on a diving
mask?
Many of the tropical reef
dwellers have a personality of their own and hovering over one spot
enables us to study their habits and habitat. Unfortunately, many of the edible
varieties are understandably shy of swimmers and for good reason as they
are often hunting for food. The fish know which of them qualify under the
heading of 'tasty'. So when we appear they disappear into any crevice they
can find. It all makes for an interesting experience - akin to swimming around
in a huge tropical fish tank.
One changing aspect of cruising in the San Blas is that the
Kunas are beginning to charge for anchoring off some of the more beautiful
of the 365 islands or villages that they may be associated
with. Yet when entering San Blas at Porvenir a flat charge of
$20 per month per boat is made by the Kuna Congresso for anchoring as
well as a $2 charge per person for the duration of the stay. But in three
locations we have recently been asked for further anchoring or 'visiting' fees.
If they have the correct paperwork from the Congresso then these charges are
apparently legitimate and thus payable. Naturally some are 'trying it
on'. When challenged for their written authority to make such a charge and
they don't have it they become annoyed or just go away and
leave you alone. Undoubtedly this situation will develop further in the
coming years as they turn from Mola selling (there are only so many Molas you
can buy) to more lucrative money-making activities. And cruisers are
seen as a 'cash cow' to be milked. Sadly, much the same as other locations
in the Caribbean and beyond.
The San Blas are still one of the most stunningly beautiful
island chains in the world. As soon as we have better internet connection
we will post some more photographs.
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