Through the Abaco to Little Harbour

AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Wed 29 Jan 2014 20:22
Little Harbour 26:19.63N 076:59.92W
From Green Turtle Cay where we had whiled away some ten days
without much explanation as to what we had actually been up to we felt we really
should get going again. Ah! just remembered, we had alternator issues to resolve
which took up a fair amount of time. We certainly walked a lot which is always
good to do but the need to move further southwards and an opportunity to
get through Whale Cay Cut in a flat calm sea proved too irresistible. Besides
we've known boats to get stuck there for weeks due to that passage being
untenable. Briefly, it's where the large ocean swells meet the Abaco islands and
the sea depth rises from hundreds of feet to just a few, making the whole area a
maelstrom should there be an outgoing tide or strong onshore winds. We left just
after sunrise and two hours later we were motorsailing past Whale Cay where you
could have safely canoed through. That's just the way we like that cut to
be!
![]() ![]() 'Donny's Dock' at Green Turtle, although we chose
to use one of his moorings
![]() ![]() The other side of Green Turtle which has a
fringing reef some distance out and shallow sand banks close
inshore
Marsh Harbour, the main town in the Abaco islands, was the
next port of call. Here we re-provisioned in the large (new to us) supermarket
called Maxwells (no they don't sell silver hammers and no doubt the joke has
worn thin with the staff by now). Also on the shopping list was a SIM card for
our USB datastick so we could access the internet throughout the Bahamas.
This is a service that was unavailable last time we were here and were
looking forward to seeing how it would work. Well, initially it didn't! Couldn't
gain any connection at all to the BTC network. So the following day it was back
to the BTC office to see what could be done. No joy there as they were
unfamiliar with our USB modem stick. Phil had 'unlocked' it using some
dodgy internet site since leaving Panama where it had been purchased
to work on the Digicel network there. Fortunately the very nice man (I.T
Geek) in the computer shop in Marsh Harbour was able to put in the correct
information to make BTC talk to the stick and we now had internet. However,
we discovered later that Skype communication was to be another problem
altogether.
Leaving Marsh Harbour in a hurry due to a nasty cold front
that was due to arrive in a day or so we motored to Hope Town on Elbow Cay which
had all round protection. The front never came to much in the end but we spent
an enjoyable four days re-acquainting ourselves with this beautiful if slightly
crowded holiday isle where memories of past visits from family and friends came
flooding back. Here was a chance for the 'Admiral' to dare to open our dirty
linen lockers which were crammed full of unmentionables since
when? Well, since before leaving Florida actually we are loathe to
admit. The facilities at the Lighthouse Marina into which our ripe washing
was stuffed were by the 'Admiral's standards quite acceptable and it was a
joy to sit down and arrange the sweet smelling t-shirts, shorts
and undies into their respective clean piles afterwards. Ah! such simple
pleasures.
![]() ![]() Picturesque Hope Town, with its famous lighthouse
in the distance......and a reminder that these shores were
even more hazardous in bygone days
![]() ![]() ![]() Ocean side, Elbow Cay with calm conditions - a
rarity in winter
With the weather now settled we decided to continue the
momentum southwards and head to another of our 'must stop' locations. Our last
in the Abaco which was Little Harbour. We even had a reasonable sail most of the
way there, taking the scenic route past Lubbers Quarters which sits just west of
the south end of Elbow Cay near Tahiti Beach. Then across the shallow Tilloo
banks and onwards to Little Harbour, picking up a mooring belonging to Pete's
Pub.
Those who cruise the Abaco rarely exclude Little Harbour from
their list of favourite destinations. That is those with a draft of around four
feet or so otherwise you may not get in over the shallow sand bar as many have
found to their embarrassment. It's a unique place with virtually no Bahamian
influence or culture in evidence. Little Harbour was brought to fame by Randolph
Johnston who lived in a cave here and set up a foundry casting beautiful bronze
figurines of sea creatures. Many are scattered around the waterfront for
visitors to enjoy as well as a shop where bronze castings can be bought, many at
eye-watering prices. That foundry is operating today under the expertise of Pete
Johnston, Randolph's son. There's plenty on the internet about this family if
you are curious.
![]() ![]() That wasn't there last time we were here! New
shack (Little Harbour Yacht Club!) on the pier
There had been a few changes over the three years we'd been
absent. Some new building projects and some new faces in what is a very small
community where just nine people live all year round. This time of year that
figure swells somewhat and we met up with four new inhabitants that had
either built or bought their own little piece of paradise. We met them at a
'sundowner' gathering on the beach which was followed by an invite to view the
one bed home of one of the newcomers which overlooks the entrance
to Little Harbour itself. They were in the process of selling their motor
trawler which they had cruised in over many years, now wanting to devote their
time living in the Bahamas in winter and their home in Connecticut in the
summer. Made perfect sense to us!
![]() ![]() ![]() Sundowner get together for residents, guests and
no see-ums - we were ruthlessly bitten! and the only evidence of Skip's first
ocean swim of the season
![]() ![]() Views 'to die for' - yes we would probably be
tempted to own a property with this outlook too, but the boat views
we daily enjoy take some beating as well
Yet more memories returned from good times past as we walked
to the ocean beach looking for seaglass for the 'Admiral's' collection. This
practise, which 'Skip' has become a willing participant off, consists
of walking along a sandy beach, preferably at low tide at a speed that
an arthritic tortoise could easily keep up with. Then bending over and
picking up tiny pieces of glass that have become worn smooth by the action
of the sea combined with the abrasive effects of rolling around in the sand over
countless weeks, months, years or more. Who knows. But the pieces have to be
'cooked' ('Admiral's' terminology) that is, not have any jagged or shiny
edges.
![]() ![]() Every piece collected with care - oh my back!
(shut up! and keep looking - ed)
Any not meeting that quality are thrown back for perhaps
someone else in the future to collect and take away. (Or tread on and need
medical attention). In order to momentarily evade seaglass duties 'Skip' took to
the warm Atlantic waters for a quick dip, leaving the 'Admiral' to scan for more
pieces of 'cooked' glass. It's a popular pastime with
cruisers and with the constant bending over it perhaps serves some physical
exercise needs. There must be a handy device that would do the scooping up to
save the bending over - a JCB maybe! No that's just silly so we'll end things
there for now.
Just remembered this little fellow
we passed on the track walking away from our friends house. Only minutes before
his jeep had driven along this stretch and he could have become homeless and
suffered shell shock.
![]() ![]() Looks like the creature in 'Alien' doesn't
it - just a land crab.
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