Islesboro to Castine - Penobscot Bay

AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Fri 30 Jul 2010 22:48
First stop after our few days in Camden was Warren
Island situated by the island of Islesboro where we picked up a
mooring kindly supplied by the Warren Island State Park. Apart from a
warden's log cabin the island is uninhabited except for
the few campers who can book any of the seven
secluded sites. Each site has its own privy which is set a discreet
distance away for modesty reasons. Whilst being a good idea in theory
neither of us fancied the thought of traipsing through the park in the dark
early hours to answer the call of nature wondering what may be
inhabiting the privy overnight - there are many snakes on the island along
with various other woodland beasties! Each site also has its own protected fire
pit to avoid the whole island going up in smoke and campers are encouraged to
collect their own firewood of which there is no shortage of dead and
decaying trees.
![]() ![]() Looking over to the mainland &
Camden
Hills Then
waiting to receive news from any loyal
subjects!
![]() ![]() A beautiful place to spend the
weekend
This is the 'root' we took around the
island
We walked the trail which skirts the circumference
of the island and also met with some nice Canadian folk on another yacht that
came over to introduce themselves. It's a very pretty location and we enjoyed a
few nights here.
![]() ![]() ![]() You never know where and when you
will glimpse these lovely old
Windjammers Our view at
Warren Island from Ajaya
Next it was off to Belfast situated on the
Passagassawakeag River. (Obviously an old Indian name - good luck with the
pronunciation!). Belfast was burnt down twice in its history and was finally
rebuilt in brick. There was a Celtic festival ending just as we arrived - we
could hear bagpipes and saw some interesting costumes from a distance.The two
memories we have from here are the numerous items of street art scattered
around the main town area, consisting of old bicycles that had been
reformed into some wonderful looking objects. The other was the Co-op health
food market complete with it's slender looking staff (obviously a
pre-requisite in securing a job there). It stocked amongst many other
goodies large self-service jars of herbs, spices, rice and pastas and best
of all those flavoured sesame sticks which we love to have with our
sundowners. Whilst the 'Admiral' was pushing her trolley round the narrow isles
Skip was busily shovelling Fenugreek and Asafoetida powder into paper bags. Then
he discovered the Turmeric powder hidden low down at floor level
and managed to get just a few ounces of the bright yellow powder into
a bag before he was discovered - earning a severe reprimand as the 'Admiral'
considers this spice to be a real staining hazard on curry nights. We stayed just the one night on the mooring ball in
Belfast.
![]() ![]() What, dress up as a bear
with tennis racket, ski poles and funny
hat ! The elephant (named Hawthorne) was later
recaptured and returned to the zoo!
![]() ![]() ![]() Had to promise a meal
out to get this picture
Phil's steed - we don't eat out that
often!
Mick Jagger look-alike totem pole carving
Next stop was Castine - a five star location
in our Maine cruising guide and which we thoroughly agreed with. It also
sits on a (pronounceable) river - the Bagaduce. Castine changed hands 25
times in the early days with the English, French, Dutch, Spanish and American
colonialists all contesting ownership. Very confusing for any local Indians
attacking at the time - being met with rebuffs and cussing in different
languages on each occasion. Very little evidence is left of it's active
military history except various plaques dotted around town indicating sites
of battles or forts or battle lines. It's also home to the Maine Maritime
Academy which swells the number of residents in the small town by many hundreds.
On the waterfront the State of Maine a 13,000 ton ex survey
ship is berthed which enables the students to study onboard a real ocean going
ship which last year visited Portsmouth UK. We toured the ship which is open to
the public and were shown round by a young Russian student who now has American
residency. How times have changed! It was interesting to see Ajaya on
its mooring close-by from the bridge. So that's how we look to the Masters of
big ships! Also docked is a restored tug that offers visitors the chance to
go up and down the river and there is a travel hoist with an old racing
yacht near by which we guessed allowed students the chance to learn
the skills of operating the hoist before being let loose on somebody's pride and
joy.
![]() ![]() Our view of the 'State of
Maine'
and the view from it's bridge towards us
![]() ![]() ![]() It reads that there were quite a
lot of battles
here
The museum building with a sinister shape in the entrance
window
We walked round the town, spent an hour in the
local museum which houses artefacts mainly from a resident family who had
travelled in the early 20th century to places like Africa and the Far East so
there were plenty of relics originally designed to maim and kill amongst the
collection! The sinister shaped carving in the front window is said to have
winked at staff recently! It's enough to give a small child (or Phil)
nightmares.
Continuing our walk around town we were hailed
by an elderly lady who came out of her house to say hello and to discuss
the poor state of the road and the appalling quality of the goods offered in
the yard sale in the large house opposite. She was strangely overdressed in
thick jumper and long slacks in the heat of the day but we soon
realised why when we were both savagely bitten on our bare legs by
some very aggressive horse flies which she seemed to almost be on first
name terms with - hence the thick clothing. We hastily said our goodbyes
whilst wiping away the blood leaching from our wounds. Of course she was quite
unscathed and quite philosophical about the situation, probably labelling us as
whimpish Brits as she gathered her beloved flies together for the next attack on
some unfortunate passers-by.
We liked Castine and nearby Smith
Cove where we anchored overnight during the visit. Our first evening made
even more enjoyable by the arrival of a large Windjammer which anchored
close-by. From a yachting purists aspect we enjoyed our views of them
probably more then they did of us. We just hoped they had set their anchor
correctly.
![]() ![]() The 'Victory Chimes' largest passenger
schooner in the USA built in 1900 & our neighbour for the
evening
The next day we left for passage through the
Eggemoggin Reach and onwards to Mount Desert (pronounced as in pudding not as in
Sahara!)
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