Another Bl...dy awful night before clearing into Guatamala

AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Sat 18 Jun 2011 21:28
There are good anchorages and bad anchorages but sometimes
it's hard to differentiate between them. On the chart they can look pretty
similar - offering a good lee from the prevailing wind but it's the surrounding
landscape that makes the difference. We were in a very large ocean 'dead
end' or corner close to the borders of Honduras, Guatemala & Belize.
We had anchored off Cabo Tres Puntas, a peninsular
jutting out into the sea some 10 miles long, the beach was lined with simple
huts with straw roofs and smoke from cooking pots wafting into the air.
Quite an attractive location really.
At 0200, pretty much on the dot, we awoke to heavy rainfall
which is quite usual in the tropics. We hastily ran round the boat shutting
hatches. Just a minutes worth of tropical rainfall through an open
hatch will have you paddling around in puddles below. Then the wind arrived
- lots of wind in fact - 30 knots of wind. It was a relief that we'd paid out 40
metres of anchor chain given the squally weather conditions. We quickly realised
that the waves we were starting to endure surely couldn't have built
up in the short distance between the beach and us. It was on with the
instruments and into the cockpit where the torrential rain was cascading off the
bimini and pouring down the decks. Outside we could see absolutely
nothing of the shoreline just the lights of the yacht we anchored next to
and the light of another new arrival. The bad news now was that those anchor
lights were on our starboard side - not the port side which was the case when we
went to bed. We now had close to gale force winds trying to push us
back onto the beach. Such was the sea state we actually took a solid wave over
the bow which unfortunately found its way below via the two forward deck hatches
that neither of us had realised were on vent.
We started the engines as a precautionary measure and kept
them ticking over in case we had to move in a hurry. Usually
these squalls last a few minutes at most and life then returns to normal,
but not this one! Then the lightening started followed by claps of thunder in
the surrounding bay. The cloud to cloud lightening was intense and the rain fell
out of the sky at an alarming rate. An hour later
and things were slowly changing. The wind had settled down to 18-25 knots
but veered into the northwest so blowing along the beach. The waves, however,
were still from the same direction meaning they were on our port beam throwing
us all over the place. There was little reason to move. The anchor
was holding fine and the visibility was still so bad we would be in more
potential trouble messing around with anchors than if we stayed put. The
storm cell was still occupying a lot of radar space on the scanner and seemed to
reform whenever it looked as if it was breaking up. Finally things started
to settle down as the lightening moved into the distance and the rain eased down
to a steady rather than torrential stream.
A couple of hours later as dawn broke we were on our way to
Livingston to check in with the Immigration and Customs authorities so that we
could proceed up the Rio Dulce to Monkey Bay Marina where we now plan to spend
much of the summer hurricane season.
As a footnote to this awful night we subsequently met the
owners of the boat that was with us in the anchorage who said - "if you think
that was bad you should have been there the previous night!" and one of the
boats we now share the marina with, a tiny 28 footer was actually hit by
lightening the night previous to that!! So if that place gets hit nightly
then we'll give it a miss in future!
A look at the surrounding area gives us an relatively simple
explanation to this phenomena - the storms roll down from Belize or along the
coast from Honduras and end up in this large bay from where there is little
escape due to the surrounding hills and mountains, so the storms just go round
and around and around with this seemingly lovely anchorage slap bang in the
middle.
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Just after
dawn after that storm
and our approach to Livingston
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