Conception Island
AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Mon 14 Feb 2011 00:37
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As we sit in Elizabeth Harbour Georgetown fanned by 20-25 knot
winds for the next few days with the wind generator working hard for a change we
are reflecting on a few idyllic days spent at Conception Island which
sits 20 miles northeast of the northern tip of Long
island. The west anchorage is favourite in the prevailing northeast
breezes. Gazing towards the golden yellow beach from onboard it could
be many peoples idea of paradise, the sea an amazing array of beautiful
shades of blue which compliment the surrounding shore. The sound of birds
singing their hearts out from the undergrowth and the sight of large rays
effortlessly gliding past the anchored boats.
  Back to reality with a bump we had arrived at Conception
with a blocked loo exit pipe which had succumbed to a build up of lime scale.
This happens with boat toilets on a regular basis and whilst there are a number
of 'cures' around, such as vinegar, Muriatic acid (perilous) and various other
concoctions the only reliable way of knowing the pipe is back to full
bore 'as new' condition is to give it a dam good thrashing - Basil Faulty
style, so that the lime scale is dislodged throughout the whole
length. We've done this a few times in our cruising life but we felt a
little uncomfortable clearing this foul pipe in such a beautiful
location. However, needs must and this was carried out on the rear
deck. Just as the Skipper was being as discreet as possible in his pipe
thrashing a largish Lemon Shark casually swam past the stern to investigate what
was falling into the water. Well it didn't stay long and we cant blame it
really.
Clearing the pipe was akin to having a troublesome tooth
extracted. A messy process but necessary, with a feeling of utter
relief at the end. We then had problems getting the pipe back
into position as it runs under the heads floor and up to a diverter valve
but after a few grunts and groans the 'plumber', helped by his 'plumber's mate',
achieved the required result and we had a working system once more. We could now
turn our attention to enjoying this wonderful island.
    There were about ten other yachts with us enjoying Conception
and the weather was exceptional whilst there. We walked ashore and over to the
ocean side where extensive reefs guard the shoreline. There was an amazing
contrast between the windward side and leeward side of the island. The colours
of the sea were in shades of green with a wilder feel. There is a mile long walk
available along the coast which we didn't have time to explore but hope to
return again before leaving the Bahamas. For now a walk along the beach and a
meet up with other visitors would suffice.       The next day we donned wetsuits and headed off to explore some
of the underwater scenery further north in the anchorage. It was good exercise
for our arms and legs but the scenery was not up to the standard of the
coral gardens in the Exuma National Park which were thriving in fish and
lobster. More interesting snorkelling was to be had around the rocky
promontory at the end of the beach which was full of fish and whilst not
beautiful to look at was better than the reef we had just swum over. The fun of
climbing back into the dinghy like two old seals brought the usual belly laughs
as we struggled to get over the wide inflatable tubes standing
precariously on the home made boarding ladder. At which point the 'Admiral'
noticed a stream of bubbles coming from one of the seams on the dinghy. It
had been going soft recently - yet another addition to the jobs
list.
Back at the boat Phil decided to check the
condition of the hulls, but where was that shark? Not far away
actually. It seemed to have a regular route round the bay which took
in close passes of the anchored yachts. Once it had
glided off on it's tour of inspection Phil went in with a mask
and snorkel. At the forward end of the boat in about 15 feet of water
was a large ray close to the seabed, a beautiful specimen with
attendant cleaning fish effortlessly gliding through the water totally
unconcerned about being watched. Then in the hazy distance the
shark returned, swimming about 3 feet off the bottom.
About 10 feet long snout to tail it was a fantastic sight as we had only
seen it from above water where the finer features are lost to the refraction of
the light at the surface. Phil headed for the back steps just in
case it became curious. It didn't, maintaining it's depth and swimming
into the distance until it was just a hazy outline and then it was
gone.
The next day we walked the beach looking to take some nice
pictures. The breeze was gentle and the day simply idyllic. It was the stuff of
dreams as we walked barefoot along the waters edge with the boat anchored 100
yards out. Once onboard a swim was desirable to cool down so the 'Admiral' took
to the water with Phil walking the deck above her on shark watch duties. Not
convinced that Lemon Sharks are virtually harmless Skip was employed scanning
for any dark shadows in the water. A circuit of the boat involves a swim of
120 feet, or about two minutes relaxed swimming time except on this occasion the
relaxed look was replaced by an anxious one and the distance was covered in
half that time. Arriving back at the transom steps and exiting the water
coincided with our 'citrus' friend's arrival back at Ajaya
escorted by it's attendant Remora fish which station themselves above and below
the shark's body taking care of any little cleaning jobs that need doing on a
day to day basis. For this service they get to share any food that escapes the
large jaws and mean teeth located just ahead of them. Once it was out of
the area Phil was in the water for another look and after just a couple of
minutes it was back, swimming exactly the same route past the boat, arriving
from the forward end on the starboard side, only this time instead of remaining
close to the bottom it began to rise towards the swim steps as Skip made a rapid
exit from the water not wishing to be a victim of mistaken identity. The
creature glided by just under the dinghy and off into the distance with the
Skipper feeling just a little whimpish from his quick retreat from the
scene.
We left Conception the following morning with heavy hearts.
It's a difficult place to get to with the prevailing winds and certainly a
difficult place to leave because of its beauty and isolation when compared with
other Bahamian islands. Hopefully we'll get to return again and see if 'ol'
lemon face' is still around.
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