Arrival in Tortola

AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Thu 23 Apr 2009 21:24
The voyage from Sint Maarten to Tortola was
uneventful. No Barracudas to fight with, no breaching whales or other denizens
from the deep. We had a good breeze to get us there - in fact we had to slow
down a little to arrive off the Virgins around dawn. As many historians will no
doubt tell you, Columbus 'discovered' these islands on his second voyage
in 1493, and named them Las Once Mil Las Virgines, after the legendary St Ursula
and the 11000 (once mil) virgins. It was also a pirate stronghold for
many years (Blaackbeard, Captain Kidd and even Francis Drake - yes he
was a pirate of sorts - maybe a nice one as he also dealt with the Spanish
Armada and played bowls a lot, and I can't see Blackbeard or Captain Kidd
playing bowls in their spare time).
Back to our present day blundering as apposed to
plundering through the islands - Once through the gap between Ginger Island and
Round Rock we headed for Road Town, the main port on Tortola. Unfortunately
there was nowhere sensible to anchor to clear in with customs, let alone stay
for any length of time to get anything done - it was very crowded. The one time
we put the anchor down just south of the cruise ship terminal there was
such a swell running into the harbour that it was just like being at sea!
It certainly didn't affect the large cruise ships docked at the town
pier or anchored off like Sea Princess, which we had been
observing all night on our AIS system as it cruised up and down north
to south so that, like us, it didn't arrive too early in Tortola. Even when out
of sight it's light loom could be clearly seen as a glow on the horizon
just like a fully lit town. The huge Norwegian Dawn was on the
town quay (looking like a giant crèche with large plastic dinosaurs on
the upper deck at the stern with the slogan "Freestyle Cruising"
painted down the side) Hmmm give that one a miss for our world cruise if
you don't mind!
![]() Safely through the passage between Ginger Island
and Round Island (Pictured)
After a quickly convened committee meeting onboard
Ajaya we decided instead to clear in at Soper's Hole situated at 18:23.19N,
64:42.06W on the western end of Tortola, a deep-ish bay with some bars,
restaurants and a charter base full of catamarans. Whilst it was still
windy blowing F5-6 from the east as we entered the sheltered bay we had at least
lost the effects of the sea. Like many popular spots in the BVIs Sopers now has
mooring buoys to be picked up with anchoring not encouraged. Buoys are charged
at $25US per night whether you are in a canoe or a large yacht which we thought
was reasonable. The option was $78US in the marina which wasn't actually an
option, so we treated ourselves to fish 'n chips with a rum punch in the
dockside bar, feeling rather isolated amongst all of the American voices
surrounding us - for the Americans are here in huge numbers chartering as the
neighbouring islands of St John and St Thomas (must be a story there) are
administered by the USA.
We are staying in Sopers for another day then
heading to Jost Van Dyke to find some swimming and snorkelling locations before
heading back to collect the gas bottle we are having filled. We had hoped to
have some post forwarded but on asking the marina staff they advise it will
be a long wait - so it may be a few more weeks before Nikki has her birthday
cards. So like the queen she will have to have a double celebration in
June. In the meantime we will explore the BVI's reccomended anchorages and see
what the islands have to offer before we set sail for the USA.
![]() Soper's Hole Marina with yachts on buoys in the
background
![]() Tiny little beach in Soper's Hole (perfect
for a teddy bears picnic)
![]() Ajaya on a buoy at Soper's Hole - flying our
yellow Q Flag prior to clearing in.
|