San Blas to Providencia

AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Tue 11 Dec 2012 16:57
We have arrived in Providencia, a Columbian outpost,
our 16th host country since leaving the UK. We spent 9 months in total in Panama
and it was time for a change. We left San Blas just as a mass of dark cloud
laden with copious quantities of rain billowed in from the north-east to soak
the nearby islands narrowly missing us as we motorsailed northwards. Pretty much
what we had endured for the past few weeks really. We never
caught the islands at their very best. But, it is a special
place to visit with it's unique indigenous peoples.
![]() ![]() 6 fish in a bucket - our last catch in San Blas -
mini 'Groupers' You need bl**dy big
moth balls to deter this 5" long monster
Providencia is very different. Part of Columbia despite being
closer to Nicaragua. It and it's slightly larger sister San Andreas 30
miles to the south provide mainland Columbians the opportunity to visit these
small outposts far out in the Caribbean. Providencia is quite unique, in that
only 'Providencians' can live here. No 'Mainlanders' or San Andreans are allowed
to set up homes or businesses on this very pretty 4 by 2 mile
volcanically created lush green hilly island. That arrangement is
perhaps why these islanders are generally a happy bunch of souls numbering about
5000 give or take, although their hackles have been raised in
recent weeks.This is due to a ruling by the International Court
in the Hague on a claim by Nicaragua lodged in 2001 to be awarded these waters
and islands. The Court ruled back in November after deliberating for just the
odd 11 years that the Islands could stay with Columbia (makes sense), but
Nicaragua's territorial waters would now extend out to 81 degrees west
instead of 82 west thus encompassing valuable fishing grounds used by the locals
here. The Colombians are extremely unhappy about it. War, thankfully, is not on
the cards but there's a lot of political posturing going on.
To explain these events the Columbian President Santos
paid a personal visit to the island last week to explain how he could be so
careless as to lose 56,000 square kilometres of ocean brimming with fish,
lobster and conch. For our part we now have to sail through
Nicaraguan waters on leaving Columbia rather than in Columbian waters.
Hopefully, there will be no issues for cruising yachts transiting through
these islands which are a useful staging post on the route from the Bay Islands
of Honduras to Panama and visa versa.
So, back to our trip north from Panama. It wasn't the best of
voyages because it proved not to be such a good weather window. From exiting
through the Holandes Cays Channel in San Blas all the way to Providencia some
280 miles away we were hard on the wind. At times 20 plus knots of wind
crossed the deck which for this elderly catamaran, with it's low bridge deck
clearance above the water, meant a very bumpy and uncomfortable ride, especially
early in the voyage when the seas were short and confused. The reason for
the close wind angle was not only due to the direction of the
wind at the time but because we knew we would incur westerly going
currents further north along with backing winds. So we desperately sought
to keep well to the east of our rhumb line to Providencia. The most we managed
was 11 miles of additional easting from a line drawn between San Blas and
Providencia which was better than nothing but not ideal.
![]() ![]() Rainbow at dawn - more squalls & a
'washing machine' sea (never looks that rough in
photos!)
![]() ![]() Early views of Providencia and, on arrival, the
neighbouring island of Santa Catalina
So it was grin and bear it. We suffered no
breakages (that we know of!) despite the bone jarring wave trains that hit
us every 4-5 seconds, like sailing over a corrugated iron roof.
Unfortunately, we arrived in Providencia with only one engine providing
drive. This issue was self inflicted by our illustrious 'Skip' as, having
just taken over a watch, managed to put the boat in 'irons' having pinched
up too close to the wind. The result was that the boat stopped when it hit the
next wave and then, as catamarans are prone to do, proceeded to sail
backwards running directly over the 50 meters of fishing line and lure we had
been trailing behind us. The next action sealed the fate of the starboard
saildrive. He unlocked the propeller to take it out of gear in order to start
the engine to get us round through the wind again.The propeller was now
spinning due to the boat's backward progress - most of the 50 meters of line was
consequently wound round the propeller. At which point it could not go
into gear. The engine was subsequently useless as a propulsion unit until
we could find smooth water to dive on the hull to unwind the line. That
proved to be when we arrived at our destination. The line could be clearly seen
leading from the reel, round the outboard motor on the dinghy, under the
starboard rudder and back across to the port side rudder where the yellow lure
was visible just itching to wind itself round the other drive leg given the
chance!
![]() ![]() ![]() Follow the fishing line as it leaves the reel,
detours around the outboard engine leg and under the starboard stern to the
saildrive leg and propeller - idiot!
Still, with no damage done we salvaged all the line and the
lure and the engine subsequently started without a problem. Phew! We then
contacted Mr Bush the resident Customs Agent in order to arrange our entry into
Providencia so that we could then spend a few days recuperating from the tiring
voyage before starting to enjoy this attractive island.
![]() ![]() Our view from the anchorage towards the island's
main port .......the 'Admiral' propping up the floating bridge linking
Providencia with tiny Santa Catalina Island
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