Bill and Caroline
Mon 20 May 2013 20:49
Leaving Hiva Oa's impressive northern coast and a windy sail to Ua Huka, although the spinnaker did have an airing for a while. Two of the favourite fishing lures were lost on the way however S/V Flapjack managed to land a 5ft Wahoo with only one significant chunk of it removed by something large while trying to haul it in (3 needed to hold onto the beast, obviously the 4th took photos).
Nuka Hiva's eastern anchorage became the stopover for the five British boats in the impromptu fleet. The steep sided hills were dotted with goats and cattle which responded to the evening call of the farmer and made their way to the lower slopes, from the squealing heard - the pig was less fortunate.
Trekking to find the local Tikis (sacred statues), the village - with shop, was passed through and baguettes ordered for the following day. Unusually the route was signposted, which was just as well, and the lonely planet advice to apply plenty of bug repellent was heeded, again just as well. After much slipping, sliding and occasional rests to admire the view (i.e. catch ones breath) the Tikis came into view with semi-wild horses grazing around the structures. The upper platform contained a large pit where the human remains were apparently dispatched. Glad we visited in the 21st Century!
Visiting the village by dinghy proved just as exhilarating. The small choppy waves had increased to a larger uncomfortable swell and 4 in the dinghy was, interesting. Huge manta rays were seen just below the surface with mouths open, filtering the green water. The small river inlet to the village quay was apparently navigable….if we all got out and pushed. The coconut palms are banded with metal to reduce the likelihood of rats stealing the valuable produce, however, pamplemousse and mango were free game and all foraging opportunities were maximised - with permission from the village residents.