51:28.4N 09:43.3W  Departed Tuesday morning for Crookhaven, pop 11.  We had wind on the nose so decided to motor sail.  Just past Cape Clear Island (pop 125 It is a Gaeltacht area and the southernmost inhabited point of Ireland.  The sailing guide states that it attracts Gaelic scholars, artists and many birdwatchers who come to observe the passage of tens of thousands of seabirds on the daily flight between the coast of Kerry and their feeding grounds in the Celtic Sea), we spotted  Fastnet Rock (often the first sight of Ireland for the transatlantic sailor, and the rock is said to be the most famous racing mark in the world). The currents were shifting directions in the course of our sail and we had to pay close attention to navigating.  This is where the Gulf Stream ends and provides great fishing for local fisherman.  As we entered the harbor, we were met by the Crookhaven Sailing Club's young students, taking sailing lessons (a mom told us they drive all the way from Cork City's surrounding areas).  The boats looked like butterflies all over the water.  Because Arbella is 33tons, we don't trust mooring balls for safe holding, so we were on the hunt for a good place to anchor.  Temp still in the low 60's and I noticed all the kids had on wet suits.  Can't imagine falling into the water and having to "right" your Sunfish sail boat in the frigid water.  We took our dingy up to the quay so we could stretch our legs and have a hot lunch/dinner of fresh seafood.  But before this we followed recommendations  to stop into O'Sullivan's Pub.  In this part of Ireland, Murphy's Stout is preferred over Guinness Stout.  The Pub was jammed and it was fun to take in the local color.