Thursday 21 June:  Viti Levu, Fiji  South Pacific Ocean 17 19.0S  178 12.0W  

Today’s Blog by David (Time zone UTC +12.00;  BST+11.00)

Apologies for being quiet, but we have been enjoying ourselves!  We are now in Fiji another archipelago, some 330 islands spread over about 300 miles.  There are two main islands: Vannu Levu and Viti Levu.

We arrived Savu Savu in Vanu Levu. Fiji on Tuesday last week to embark on the process of ‘inward clearance’.  This takes different forms in different countries. In Fiji, we made the mistake of arriving at dawn at the same time as eight to ten other yachts – and we were about 8^th in  the queue.  The good news was that we did not have to go ashore and wait in the offices of officialdom; the bad news was that it was not until 15.00 that we were cleared to go ashore – and the last piece of paper was not received until the following day. We then had to go ashore to pay our dues – e.g. Health and Quarantine fees (FJ$172.50) had to be paid at the hospital – 3 km outside town.

Such fees (Health and Quarantine , immigration , harbour dues etc.)  are all common place. In contrast to other countries though,  the approach to dutiable goods (alcohol and cigarettes) duties is to tax everything on board (other countries tax you only on what you consume in the country).  The duty free allowances for four people covered the spirits on board but we got “done” for our stocks of beer (much of which we have been carrying since Panama).  Duties ran at about 50% of the original purchase price. Hmm.

Savu Savu  has a certain charm. It has a high expatriate community – mainly yotties and people servicing yotties – a good market -  most things are available there - AND IT IS CHEAP! For most of the journey since Panama, prices have been high, particularly in French Polynesia, but here you can get a good New Zealand sirloin  steak meal for £15 and a beer is about half the price we were paying e.g.  in Tahiti. 

Savi Savu is the kind of place you could spend a very long time.    But time is something don’t have on this relentless Roller Coaster  which is the WorldARC, so  to up anchor and off!  

We have opted to route along the coast of Viti Levu, via Makogai  and Naigani Islands. We spent last night anchored off the Wananave Resort, near Ellington Wharf where we went ashore to enjoy a Fijian feast and “maka” (dancing).

The local dancing in the Pacific, even to my untutored eye, has been quite different in different countries.  We first saw it in Hiva Oa, where the women dressed in red dresses and “sang” loudly – the men did the hard work and provided the spectacle.  By Niue and especially in  Tonga, the young women stole the show with delicate rhythmic movements of the hands, arms and upper body – not unlike Indian dancing (to my still untutored eye!).  Last night, in Fiji we were back to the men providing such spectacle as there was to see.

One feature of life in Fiji is that village  social life centres around Cava – a root crop which is ground, mixed with water and drunk – much as you might chat over a tea or coffee in England.  Coffee contains a drug, (caffeine, dummy) , and so too does cava – it reportedly dulls the senses and sends your lips numb.

It is said not to be addictive (?). However, when one heaves into view of a village and drops anchor. it is customary to go ashore and engage with the Chief to seek their permission to use their land and sea and to ask for safe practique. You need to take along a present of 0.3-0.5 kilos of cava root (a bit long longer and thicker celeriac roots) – this present is called a Yangoni. Judging by the way they react to the gift – no, it can’t be at all addictive! 

There is a whole lot of ritual associated with it – called “Sevu Sevu”.  The guests sit cross legged facing he chief and villagers sit either side to form a circle.   A large bowl of cava is placed on the floor,  thus:

And everybody – including you -  drinks it from coconut shell cups - until it is gone. It is rude to leave while there is still some in the bowl, so the trick is to make your excuses before they start on the refill. This photo is actually from a stylised ceremony to welcome the Governor of Vava’u Tonga - it is not a ceremony we have yet enjoyed – but what we have heard has been sufficient to be glad of it!  We have been ashore and given cava to a chief but that was in a village that receives several boats a day – the Chief has after all a living to make so he graciously accepted our cava and we were spared the Sevu Sevu – Phew!!

Finally, it is winter here. 21 June is the SHORTEST day.  It is blowing old boots and the temperature is only 25 degrees Centigrade! –  we feel so cold that Simone has her winter woollies on ……. she would have if she had brought them!