Sunday 14th October:  Noumea, New Caledonia South Pacific Ocean 22 16.6S  166 26.4E 

Today’s Blog by David (Time zone BST+10.00; UTC +11.00 )

Well, we are here.  Arrived the back at the end of last week to find a blistering hot sun, the boat in exactly the same condition as we left it and a warm welcome from everyone who was expecting payment for services alleged to have been rendered.

The only problemettes were:

1                     We were not expecting to find the boat in exactly the same condition as we left it and

2                     We were expecting to find a queue of various trades with tools and supplies to fix the remaining issues (replace that  hydraulic hose, drain and refill the hydraulic system, and assist in refitting the boom).

I guess I have done this  enough times to know that  you need to be here, banging on doors or bashing ears;  there’s no likelihood of anything happening in your absence.   Ho hum!

Noumea

Thus  is a large town, bigger than Tahiti but not at all cosmopolitan: the Banyan tree – ubiquitous across the South  Pacific is woven into the urban fabric:

It is all Very French  - about 30% second generation French emigrants. New Caledonia has a vibrant economy based on Nickel extraction; it’s pricey but not as expensive as Tahiti and where the best French food restaurants are described as “excellent food .... for Noumea”.  The Christianity is the name of the game but both protestant and catholic churches abound – guess which denomination this cathedral serves:

There are more traditional sights but they are stylised representations of a past that seems forgotten in Noumea:

Whether this past is still present in other parts of New Caledonia, we will find out soon. For the crew is assembled, the boat has now been fixed and provisioned and, but for one small impediment, we would be out there today.

Peter and I remain as continuity and are joined by Atlantic veteran Richard Norton (blogs passim), Lenie Stephens and Terry Kellett.  Bob has family commitments to sort out and we wish him well. As it happens, I met both Peter and Bob through the Phoenix Yacht Club; in fact  it was with its predecessor organisation,  the BP Yacht Club,  that I learned to sail.  Terry and Lenie have surfaced  from the same stable.  I am sure pictures of them both will follow when we have overcome the latest impediment – to whit, the fact that is cold and has been chucking it down all day. So we are having a stay at home day.

Peter and I had taken the Bimini down in July,  looking forward to being able to see the Cosmos at night as we sail down to a more temperate New Zealand ( hopefully watching  a total eclipse on the way).   Tomorrow, however,  promises the start  of a seven day, dry, sunny spell; temperatures will only be 20-23 degrees C but, based upon last week, the sun will be scorching.  Our experience of the sun – Friday in particular – led Peter and I to re- erect the bimini yesterday.

Now, avid readers will remember the Umbrella Award (come on – keep up! “The two most useless things on a yacht are naval officers and umbrellas”). It is awarded only to the perpetrators of the most banal, stupid or careless acts.

The winners so far:

Norton:  our putative Navigator Elect for the next few days, whose attempt to guide us to the best restaurant in town were hampered not a little by a failure to grasp which way is North.

Verkroost: engineer extraordinaire whose cunning plan to jury rig the bimini frame with sticking plaster and epoxy worked well .... save for the fact the crucial piece was securely glued upside down and to the wrong end.

Caukill & Kellett : A joint award to a dynamic duo whose valiant expedition to secure an essential ‘something for the weekend’   (aka a case or two of of beer and wine)  was dashed on the rocks of arcane local licensing laws. [ It seems one can’t buy alcohol après midi, Vendredi, Samedi et Dimanche.  The nanny state protects its flock from unplanned alcohol abuse; but it is OK if you plan it in advance and purchase it before midday!]  Does such an award in the context of local custom seem harsh? Not when you know Caukill and Verkroost had already fallen foul of the same problem in July!

So that is it- we are in good spirits and we set off tomorrow. Normal rules apply - Watch this space.