Farewell San Blas

Serendipity
David Caukill
Fri 20 Jan 2012 20:49

Friday 20th January 2012  Chichime Cays 9 34.95N 78 52.92W  

Today’s Blog by David

 

 

Tomorrow, we set off along the mainland coast for Panama.  We will take three days over the journey. So, we decided at last to engage with the Kuna people on their own territory; the Carti Islands.

 

We upped anchor from Chichime yesterday morning and went Carti Sugtupu, the central island of about three acres; one of a four island group.  On Sugtupu there is reported to be an hotel, a restaurant and a museum of Kuna culture.

 

We arrived and anchored off to survey the scene; our hopes of a meal ashore were lowered as we watched the local Water Board at work, receiving barrels of water from the mainland:

 

                       

 

Water comes  mainly in blue barrels, but every ferry from the mainland uses all available space – Linda and Bob’s ferry from the River Carti Grande was no exception as,  after a three hour drive in a  4x4, they completed their journey from Panama City by  transferring  to the yacht  by taking a “Long Boat” down a winding crocodile infested  river along the edge of the jungle: 

 

 

                               

 

This morning we went ashore in search of local produce; food and arts and crafts.  We landed on the first available jetty which by chance turned out to be owned by Eugilio – a main who had been quick to offer his services to us last night – even before the anchor hit the seabed.  Eugilio led us down a narrow alley between houses built of sugar cane walls and palm leaf roofs. We arrived in a  large room which turned out to be his own home and were immediately confronted with local arts and crafts to purchase.

 

Extricating ourselves for only US$5, we came out into the street. This is the (wide) main street.

 

                                                                              

 

There were many narrow side roads off which led us to wonder about a career in the Local Fire Brigade……………?

 

All roads quite quickly  led to the water to a view:  of the yacht  or the local urinal…

 

                                                               

 

The urinal is the specially designed and engineered left hand structure (in the RH picture) ; no idea what the kid is strangling!). 

 

That is not to say they are without modern conveniences;  solar panels and satellite TV are essential utilities

 

                                                                         

 

Our tour ended with a return to Eugilo’s house and, while bought more local Arts and Crafts from his family, we enquired  where the hotel was - -  only to find that we were standing in it:

 

 

 

                                                                 

 

In fact we were standing in the restaurant.  We took our leave via the kitchens, disappointed that it was too early for lunch.

 

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We then returned here to Chichime Cays (for some snorkelling and dinner before we set off tomorrow morning)  only to be reminded of how tricky some of the navigation is round here by the wreck of another yacht (we have seen four now) who rolled the dice and lost!