Bamboozle - Fulaga Photos 1

Fulaga Photos 1

Bamboozle

Jamie and Lucy Telfer

Sun 8 Sep 2013 06:42

019:09.039S 178:32.423W

Finally we are able to share some photos of Fulaga (pronounced Fulanga) in the Southern Lau group of Fiji. We are now on Viti Levu with phone and internet and this is the first of three sets of pictures we will post on the blog from the six weeks we spent out in the Laus.

This aerial photo (not one of ours!) shows the tricky narrow pass into the lagoon. It is even more scary from sea level with big breakers either side, powerful currents with a large standing wave and overfalls if you get your timing wrong. The water is so clear you can see everything on the bottom so it looks even shallower than it really is. At the far end of the pass you have to hug the big rock on the port side to avoid the many coral bommies that almost block the entrance. One yacht recently failed to do this and came to a grinding halt on the way in... their memories of Fulaga will be a little different from ours. This view also shows the amazing barrier reef that surrounds the island and we spent many days diving on the outer reef and snorkeling and diving through the pass.

This is one of the three villages on the island and home to the Chief. There are less than 100 people living in this village but they are some of the most wonderful, friendly people we have ever met. It is hard to explain how different the lives of these people are to ours. There is no electricity, no running water and one phone line through to the mainland maintained by the government. There is a shop (which is generally empty) and a nursing station with no nurse. Their only real link to the outside world is a supply ship that comes about once every six weeks but they seem to be so happy and content...... we feel we have learned a lot here about what really matters in life.

On our first day we went to meet the Chief for our Sevusevu ceremony. We have just handed over our kava roots wrapped in newspaper. Tai (sitting to my left) is acting as our spokesman and is writing our names in the book that records the yachts and people who visit their island. I think I look particularly fetching wearing a sulu (skirt) which is obligatory when visiting the Chief and going to church. We couldn't quite establish the origin of the Chief's Day-Glo donkey jacket!

Moving around inside the lagoon requires concentration, good light and is a test of ones eyeball navigation skills. Inside the reef is uncharted so you really do need to look where you are going! We wiggled our way through the coral heads and discovered some of loveliest anchorages we have found in the South Pacific.

Bamboozle tucked in amongst the mushroom shaped limestone islands and rocks. The shelter and holding is fantastic and you would be comfortable and safe here in anything short of a cyclone.

I went up the mast to fix the anchor light but spent most of the time taking photos (of myself!) and looking at the view.

During our first week we were invited to visit the school on the island for children up to the age of 13. Beyond that age they have to go away to Suva on the main Fijian island of Viti Levu to complete their education either boarding or staying with relatives. Our arrival totally disrupted the working day and all the kids came running out to greet us.

Back to work for the children with Lucy helping Schoolmaster George with his "English" lesson for the older pupils.

Everyone was very enthusiastic but as you can see it is all pretty basic.

Instead af a school bell school bell the lunch break is announced by drum. The parents take it in turn each day to provide lunch for all the children. The sense of community here defies description and everyone seems to share everything like one big family.

George's wife Ma in her kitchen. She manages to produce amazing food on this open fire. We became very friendly with them both and their son Junior and they made us feel very much part of their family during our stay.

Every time we came to the village they insist on feeding us and here we are with our diving buddies off the yacht Meikyo tucking into another of Ma's substantial and tasty lunches.

On a rainy day we persuaded Ma to come on board Bamboozle to teach us how she makes her delicious rotis which provided a lot of laughter and entertainment.