We have arrived in the Galapagos
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Bamboozle
Jamie and Lucy Telfer
Fri 14 Apr 2006 19:09
On Wednesday evening having logged 875 nautical miles we arrived in Wreck
Bay on the island of San Cristobal in the Galapagos. The trip had taken us about
six and half days, a passage we were pleased with given that we had
crossed the notoriously windless equator during that time. We
did completely run out of wind for the last 24 hours so had to motor in. I
think we were very lucky to have sailed so much of the trip, one of the boats we
know that left only two days after us had to motor so much in the first
half of their trip into a strong counter current that they have diverted to
Ecuador to fill up with diesel.
We settled into the passage a lot quicker this time than during our
Atlantic passages. Our watch system of 3 hours on and 3 hours off during
the night is pretty disruptive but calm seas and light winds meant Lucy slept so
much better, not of course as well as the dozy skipper, who seems to have no
problem dropping off the minute he goes off watch!!
The approach to the Galapagos Islands for the first time, was as
spectacular as one imagines. As we travelled down the coast of the
first island there is not a single sign of human life, no buildings, no roads,
no lighthouse, just miles and miles of spectacular wild beaches and
wildlife. Only when we got right down to the south west corner and Wreck
Bay that the small town came into view. We anchored amongst the other
yachts, many of whom we have already met in Panama or before and joined our old
friend Petr and his new crew Tom from Shoestring for dinner that night.
One is immediately aware of a very special feeling about the place, it is about
900 miles from anywhere but feels a million miles away.
This small settlement is the administrative centre of the islands but the
bay still really belongs to the sea lions who have no fear of man and who
trespass at will. Their favourite habit is to sunbathe for most of the
day and the lounger of choice are the yachts' dinghys or if they can
the yachts themselves which can give you a bit of a shock!! Yesterday
whilst I was up the mast checking the rigging, one of these beasts
decided to try and climb into the cockpit with Lucy who was busy
concentrating on hoisting me to the top. Fortunately he struggled to get
through the life lines and fell back into the water. If he had joined
Lucy in the cockpit I am not sure how long she would have stayed at the winch
and I might have spent quite a long afternoon getting sunburnt stuck 65 feet up
in the air!!
It is normal when visiting a country to fly a courtesy flag (a small flag
of the country you are visiting) at the crosstrees. Whilst in Panama we
had failed in our attempts to find one for Ecuador so during the second half of
our passage Lucy decided to make one from various pieces of material we had
lying around. As you can see from the photo the result was immaculate
although we are keeping our fingers crossed it doesn't get too windy in the
anchorage...... it might look pretty but it is a fair weather flag. And
before anyone sends a rude e-mail, yes the stripes are meant to be different
sizes!!
Depending on how long the authorities allow us, we hope to be here for
ten days or so. We already have a couple of trips planned to tour the
island and track down Giant Tortoises, marine iguanas etc.and also hope to
do some diving next week. We'll keep you posted....
Wishing you all a Happy Easter.
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