We have spent the last week on the island of Ua Pou having had quite a boisterous (but quick) passage across the 60 miles from Hiva Oa with some very gusty and wet squalls making life a little uncomfortable. When we arrived the unusual NE wind had turned the bay off the main village into a nasty lee shore so we found a deserted inlet tucked in under deep cliffs on the west of the island where we spent a day waiting for things to settle down a little. The island is only 9 miles long  (smaller than the isle of Wight) but rises in the centre into a series of dramatic rocky pinnacles over 4000 feet high that swirl in and out of the clouds.

                                                                       

The next afternoon we sailed back around into Hakahau where we discovered possibly the most friendly place we have ever been to.....somewhere where even the gendarmes are charming! The village, with just over a thousand people, is the third busiest in the whole Marquesas with three general stores, a post office, a bank and a bakery which produces baguettes and even fresh croissants! The whole of French Polynesia while being distant and unspoilt is certainly well supported by France (and I expect the EEC) with many grants and allowances available to help the locals many of whom seem to drive shiny new pick up trucks to collect the coconuts and copra. In addition to the pretty little local school there is a small college (with a well tended sports pitch and gym) all which look in markedly better condition than most publicly funded educational facilities I have seen in the UK in recent years. There is also no litter which is particularly noticeable after coming through Latin America and the Caribbean.

 

There is in fact some litter but it is entirely organic......there are fruit trees everywhere shedding their loads of mangoes, bananas, grapefruit, oranges, lemons and papaya. All the trees are owned by someone but they are happy to share in this abundance and during our stay we were given piles and piles of fruit including a massive whole stalk of bananas (40 or 50 of them) which we are struggling and failing to eat as fast as they ripen.    

 

Our stay in Ua Pou also coincided with a big village get together for the Fete de Mere (Mother's Day) to which we were invited. The evening included music, dancing and as the highlight of the evening, the annual Miss Oa Pou competition. This was no half hearted affair complete with a local wanabee Eric Morley and included both swim wear and evening wear sections. The focus was on beauty and there were no little interviews with the contestants or comments on world peace or how they were going to use their year as Miss Oa Pou to help orphan children. The eventual winner was stunning.... and quite tall which is lucky as the trophy was a ridiculous piece of silverware almost 5 feet high. There were, it seemed, no concerns about exploitation and whether this sort of thing is politically correct.... the girls were flaunting it, the men (and women) loving it, with everyone cheering and whistling and having a great time.

 

We have now moved across to Nuku Hiva to a huge bay indented two and a half miles between steeply wooded hills. The trekking on these islands is wonderful (and steep) and the green mould that had grown on our hiking boots during the crossing is now coming off.  This afternoon we are off to see if we can get up on to the ridge that crowns the island and look down into the bays on the northern shore. If it is as steep as it looks maybe we will get a lift in one of those shiny new pick up trucks!!  

 

                                                                                                  Savoir Vivre at anchor in Hakahau