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17:40.826S 177:23.162E
On each of our trips up the Yasawa chain of islands we have
anchored for a couple of nights off a small village called Namboro on the
island of Waya Lailai. It is a particularly friendly place and on
each of our visits we were very warmly welcomed by the villagers and especially
Tom (pictured below with some of his grandchildren) the head man of the
village and representative of the Chief (who actually lives in another village
across on the other side of the island). The place is probably typical of many
of the smaller communities in Fiji with less than two hundred people living
together, with no roads, no vehicles, in simple houses with a
small Methodist church and junior school (and of course a rugby
pitch with not much grass and posts made from giant bits
of bamboo). The locals mainly still subsist by farming and
fishing although increasingly the young are finding work in the lodges and
resorts of the growing tourist industry.
Recently however, something major has changed for all the inhabitants
of Namboro. While in the western world we think of leaps in
consumer technology in terms of the arrival of the iPod or the near
universal availability of wi-fi, here in this magnificent corner of the
Pacific something much more fundamental and life altering is going
on. In the two weeks since our last visit electrical power has arrived in
Namboro! I'm not talking about plugging in to the mains,
there are still 40 miles of sea between them and the nearest corner of
Fiji's national grid, but they have installed a good old fashioned diesel
generator, which is big enough to supply light to the 30 or so
houses. Whereas just a few weeks ago, once the sun was
down, all went dark with maybe the occasional cooking fire piercing
the night, we could now see the beach gently lit up with the glow
from the windows. It is probably hard for us to even
imagine a change like this but it certainly made us think. It is 128
years since Edison invented the bulb and these people have just had the chance
to turn the lights on at home for the first time! We sat on the deck
under the stars watching the glimmer along the shoreline and
wondered what the next few decades will bring?
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