We have arrived in the Galapagos

Bamboozle
Jamie and Lucy Telfer
Fri 14 Apr 2006 19:09
On Wednesday evening having logged 875 nautical miles we arrived in Wreck Bay on the island of San Cristobal in the Galapagos. The trip had taken us about six and half days, a passage we were pleased with given that we had crossed the notoriously windless equator during that time.  We did completely run out of wind for the last 24 hours so had to motor in. I think we were very lucky to have sailed so much of the trip, one of the boats we know that left only two days after us had to motor so much in the first half of their trip into a strong counter current that they have diverted to Ecuador to fill up with diesel.
 
We settled into the passage a lot quicker this time than during our Atlantic passages.  Our watch system of 3 hours on and 3 hours off during the night is pretty disruptive but calm seas and light winds meant Lucy slept so much better, not of course as well as the dozy skipper, who seems to have no problem dropping off the minute he goes off watch!!
 
The approach to the Galapagos Islands for the first time, was as spectacular as one imagines.  As we travelled down the coast of the first island there is not a single sign of human life, no buildings, no roads, no lighthouse, just miles and miles of spectacular wild beaches and wildlife.  Only when we got right down to the south west corner and Wreck Bay that the small town came into view.  We anchored amongst the other yachts, many of whom we have already met in Panama or before and joined our old friend Petr and his new crew Tom from Shoestring for dinner that night.  One is immediately aware of a very special feeling about the place, it is about 900 miles from anywhere but feels a million miles away.
 
This small settlement is the administrative centre of the islands but the bay still really belongs to the sea lions who have no fear of man and who trespass at will.  Their favourite habit is to sunbathe for most of the day and the lounger of choice are the yachts' dinghys or if they can the yachts themselves which can give you a bit of a shock!!  Yesterday whilst I was up the mast checking the rigging, one of these beasts decided to try and climb into the cockpit with Lucy who was busy concentrating on hoisting me to the top.  Fortunately he struggled to get through the life lines and fell back into the water.  If he had joined Lucy in the cockpit I am not sure how long she would have stayed at the winch and I might have spent quite a long afternoon getting sunburnt stuck 65 feet up in the air!!
 
It is normal when visiting a country to fly a courtesy flag (a small flag of the country you are visiting) at the crosstrees.  Whilst in Panama we had failed in our attempts to find one for Ecuador so during the second half of our passage Lucy decided to make one from various pieces of material we had lying around.  As you can see from the photo the result was immaculate although we are keeping our fingers crossed it doesn't get too windy in the anchorage...... it might look pretty but it is a fair weather flag.  And before anyone sends a rude e-mail, yes the stripes are meant to be different sizes!!
 
Depending on how long the authorities allow us, we hope to be here for ten days or so. We already have a couple of trips planned to tour the island and track down Giant Tortoises, marine iguanas etc.and also hope to do some diving next week.  We'll keep you posted....
 
Wishing you all a Happy Easter.
 
 

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