Les Saintes (Islands off Guadeloupe) 15:51.98N 61:35.24W
Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Sat 27 Feb 2010 21:39
|
Les Saintes (Islands off Guadeloupe)
Feb 26th / 27th/28th.
On our last day in St Pierre, Martinique, the
wind was very unusually coming from the south and even a little south west.
Very strange in the Caribbean where the predominant winds are almost always
easterly.
So much so that when we were in St Lucia ,Marigot bay
,when the wind blew for half a day from the west, a local guy told us that
'a west wind brings ill health'. Obviously a superstition due to the rarity of
that wind direction.
Well the wind blew all day 18 knots in St Pierre together
with a big swell. The boat bounced on her anchor, front to back, although
much more comfortable inside than a rolling sea. We went ashore and visited the
small museum documenting the event of the eruption of Mount Pelee in
1902.
The beautiful ' Paris of the Caribbean' was totally
obliterated not by lava streams but by flying lava rocks which acted as
bombs and missiles. Incredibly the before and after photos are well documented,
just at a time of photography being available.
Not one building stayed intact, many buildings
today have the odd wall or blocks from the original town. The
theatre ruins are still preserved but only floors and a few walls.
The plans and original drawings for it showed a very grand theatre for a
small town. ( see photos )
The outside town market place is still intact, with
many large chips in the stone floors and steps----which appear to
be from the flying stones of the eruption. It was great to see the market still
being used today for local people selling fruit and veg etc. We took some photos through the arches of the re
constructed wooden shelter through to our boat in the bay.
We made our way back to the seafront and enjoyed a nice
lunch, however, we had anchored close to the shore ,as necessary,
as there is a small shelf around 12 metres deep. Beyond that the shelf
drops off quickly to 60 and 80 metres. We watched as the boat started pitching
front to back quite violently in the swell. Other skippers on smaller
boats were standing on the bows checking anchors for drag. We decided to make
our way back to the boat and after a couple of hours decided to set sail rather
than spend a night sitting on deck keeping watch.
We set sail before dark looking forward to a great run,
down wind sail, the wind behind us. Before long the wind dropped and the
little true wind that was there, came right round to a reach ( the
bow).
We motored overnight missing out Dominica and arrived 15
hours later mid morning in Les Saintes ( The Saints ).
The highlight of the sail was towards Les Saintes. We had
been scanning the water for sea life as we were on a flat calm sea-- motoring. I
had hoped we might see a turtle or dolphins but in fact we were rewarded with
about 9 pilot whales. They were between 8 and 15 ft and swam passed
the bow and then decided to come back and take a look at us. We slowed,
both went onto the bow and saw them clearly. Two swam under the bow for a
short time with the others circling. They didn't leap around like
dolphins and rarely took breaths , but when they did they blew a small plume of
water. The thing that surprised us both was we could clearly hear the high
pitch level whistle from the deck above the whale under water. I had
heard dolphins through the metal hull of 'Challenge' on my Atlantic
trip2004 but never from on deck.
The whales stayed for less than 10 mins and swam away
about 100 metres, visibly gathered together on the surface of the
water--splashing water and blowing plumes---their large black fins visible. (
see photos)
Les Saintes is like a small Bequia (Grenadines), which
reminds us of Salcombe again. A large horseshoe bay very like an estuary.
Lots of nice houses, very French colonial , very French church, very
beautiful but feeling European, not Caribbean. In the church we found candles to
buy which is still so nice, often churches now only have fake candle lights. We
both lit candles for loved ones lost, Tony's Mom and Dad, my grand parents, my
sister and my uncle.
The bay is a wonderful anchorage, lovely clear water and
very protected from the predominant Easterly wind. The town is chocolate box
with nice low level houses, shops and cafes but sadly it has a large influx of
tourists each day via ferries from Guadeloupe. The small high street is full of
tourist shops and very expensive bars, restaurants, almost with a manufactured
Disney feel.
It is still a beautiful place from the water, but the
town, we feel has lost its character to the 'day tripper' market.
We are beginning to plan the next few weeks to see if it
is feasible or not to go to the BVI's without compromising time in some of the
other islands en route. We have been told by friends that the British Virgin
Isles are not to be missed. So we'll see.
We may be moving to Guadeloupe tomorrow. There is a place
called Pigeon Island and the Jacques Cousteau marine park. Sounds like a
great place to snorkel----- I feel 360 degree circles coming on with my bottom
in the air again-------sharks----- der de der de.
We are attaching photos listed above plus a few of
Les Saintes.
Love to all
Tina and Tony x x x
|
