Bula from Fiji!
Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Wed 18 Aug 2010 21:29
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Thursday 19 August 0755 Local 1955 UTC (18th
August)
16:46.61S 179:19.67E
Since arriving in Savusavu in Vanua Levu, Fiji on
Sunday morning we have got many small boat jobs done, got to know the
area and caught up with some friends in the anchorage.
We are just getting used to the novelty of having a
longitude which is East of Greenwich and the long road home will be measured by
the counting down of our easting as we continue west.
Fiji seems different from Tonga in many ways and
again the trend to feeling a bit more Asiatic has continued. Fiji was once
part of the "British Empire" as was India and in fact they still have Queen
Elizabeth on their bank notes. Presumably due to the British link or as both
countries were part of the commonwealth, after the second world war immigrations
to Fiji from India began. There is now a huge population of Indians in Fiji and
this of course has influenced the life and culture of the islands. Walking down
the main street in Savusavu really feels like one is in Asia now and fine and
cheap Indian food can be eaten everywhere. Fijian dress, with men often wearing
the skirt wrap is prevalent and the sights and sounds of the markets now nod
to asia. The political situation in Fiji is that they have been kicked
out of the commonwealth after a military coup in the early new millenium.
Several people I have spoken to however say that this coup has now given them a
far better government than they had elected democratically and that they now get
things done and that the government is for all ethnicities. For a truly
representative view however I would need to take more soundings.
The Fiji we have visited so far is also far cleaner
than Tonga which really was dirty and untidy. Yesterday after some morning
diving we had been invited to visit a family in a Fijian village as they
were having a family day and making a "lovo". This is small feast prepared
in an underground oven and it was an honour to be invited.
The extended family took one day each month for
them all to get together and clean and fix up their properties and then all
celebrate the day. Village life in Fiji is strongly traditional and as a
"valangi" we should visit the village cheif with our Sevusevu, which is a gift
of Kava root. If accepted then permission is gained to walk around the village,
swim, anchor and is requested specifically to fish for your own immediate
needs only. Dress code and etiquette are very strict and sunglasses or hats must
not be worn, bags should be carried in the hand and women should have shoulders
covered and be wearing a long skirt past the knees. As guests in the village we
were keen to conform and not upset anyone. The chief was not available on
this occassion so another accepted the Sevusevu on his behalf with quite a
ritual. No other gifts and especially not alcohol should be given at that time,
as we would be the guests and displays of wealth or excess, "imbalances" the
strict codes of etiquette and traditions that exist in the villages. We dont
believe in giving alcohol to any of the village people we meet, despite
regularly being asked for it.
We were invited then to sit with the family we were
visiting under the shady palms in the cool breeze blowing over the
turquoise lagoon and the white sandy beach right through their simple and
humble, but immaculate home. All sat together on the ground, with three
generations all there and the work for the day done. All the dishes were in
separate pots and we were encouraged to eat as much as we could. It was very
tasty. After dinner we strolled round the incredibly well kept village and along
the beach before returning to drink Yaquona (Kava) with the whole family.
Like Tonga this is very ritualised and is a very quiet time for reflection and
relaxation and there was little talking. It was a worderful day and it was
an honour to be invited to such a tradional family gathering. In return,
and as they showed such great interest in our yacht, we invited them to visit us
today. It seems this caused great excitement and we are not sure just how many
are coming but we will have three generations and we will have to ferry them
back and fore to our tender in several loads. I am a bit worried most of
the village will turn up!
Our trip back from the village in the local bus was
also an experience and added to what had already been a very interesting day.
Tomorrow I hope to set off on a very adventurous trip round the remote
and rarely visited north of Vanua Levu. The navigation there however
is challenging to say the least and some of the feedback we have had about our
intentions have been preceded with a sharp intake of
breath!
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