The last head hunters
Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Thu 2 Dec 2010 13:30
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Thursday 2nd December 1145 Local 0345
UTC
09:50.61S 122:39.15E
Up bright and early to escape the "hotel" and to
hit the road again. We made another very early morning stop at a roadside eatery
before heading further east towards the East Timor border and up into the
mountain village of Temkessi built high on the rocks where it is airy and
secure. This was a stunningly preserved way of life and though the king was
not home we met his wife who greeted and welcomed us to her
home.
Every seven years a young warrior climbs the
vertical cliff face opposite the village witha goat over his shoulders and
ritually slaughters it and roasts it at the top of the hill. He is then not
allowed to come down till he eats it all. This is some kind of sacrifice to
ensure a good harvest or as thanksgiving for a good harvest. Seven is a special
number in Timor and has all kinds of significance arising from one story which
tells that seven beautiful sisters came down to earth and when the most
beautiful remained behind she becanme the mother of the Timorese
people.
If the route yesterday was tortuous this one atop a
ridge from where we could see the ocean to the north and the south pushed
Trish's nerves to breaking point and she had to get out of the vehicle to calm
herself.
Never mind it was headhunters next.
In a market town along the way we stopped for
Padang food where you eat with your hands. Trish said it suited me fine as I
could get more into my mouth at one time! It was delicious and three mouthfulls
could finish a plate ........
A few hours drive later we arrived at the head
hunters village in torrential monsoon rain. Only I and the
guide walked to the village through what I think you can describe as a
quagmire! e met the chief who was far too gentle to chop any ones head off and
whose mouth was like a bloodbath with Bettel Nut. I was offered some and tried
it but I just couldn't get it. So along the way just like the other guys I spat
it out, except I spat the nut out with the juice also. My toungue however knew
all about it was numb or sore I'm not sure which, until the next
morning
These guys stopped chopping off their enemies heads
in 1940. They used to go out and fight after a bunch of rituals and then bring
the head of the enemy back to the king. However before presenting it to the king
they slept with it and danced with it for four days apparently.
Nice.
I could go on for ever with the minutiae but I
would bore you.
One back in Kupang we did the dodgy deal with our
agent on the beach where we got our papers and our RIB back and he got his
money.
Today we would leave at 0500 at first light bound
for Komodo where we can be chased along the beach by man (or perhaps woman if
she can't run as fast) eating giant lizards. I think it will be a short
stay.
We are now moving at a hectic pace which is
only really possible for us with a boat like the wonderful Rhiann
Marie.
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