English Harbour

Peejay
Paul and Pat Marriage
Thu 1 Apr 2010 17:00

17:00.5N 61:45.9W

 

We slept late after the long crossing back from St Kitts. When I got up Ian was already studying in case I gave him an exam at the end of the fortnight.

 

OK so the bunny has to go that way round the tree!

 

 

Lynne wanted to go to Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour, Antigua. The place drips history. Even the entrance is notable for some rock formations known as the Pillars of Hercules. These are found on the right hand side as you enter the harbour.

 

The Pillars of Hercules

 

 

The left hand entrance used to be guarded by Fort Berkley

 

 

 

Fort Berkley – now a tourist attraction

 

 

Another view of the entrance to the harbour.

 

Fort Berkley in the middle. The Pillars on the far side – far right

 

We finally docked in Nelson’s Dockyard right in the heart of English Harbour. It’s a fantastic natural harbour but Nelson called it a hell hole because he was bitten relentlessly by mosquitoes. We soon found out what he meant.

 

Peejay tied up in Nelson’s Dockyard

 

 

Here’s a chart showing just how well protected yachts are from the sea. We were tied up by the almost horizontal black line just at the base of the top left stretch of water.

 

 

English Harbour

 

 

Nelson’s Dockyard has been restored to its former glory with many of the buildings now used for boat maintenance of some sort. It also has a museum dedicated to Nelson. Very nice, but it’s crawling with hundreds of cruise ship passengers who have been bussed in from St John’s.

 

 

In the old days they used to repair the underwater profile of the ships by hauling them over sideways until one half of the underside was out of the water – fix whatever needed doing - then repeat on the other side. That was called careening and they used big old capstans on the shore to exert the leverage.

 

The old capstans

 

 

They used to be superstitious. Women were not welcome on board but they were reckoned to be the best navigators. So instead they often used figureheads of bare breasted women and they used to model them on their wives or other notable women. The bare breasts represented the power of women. It was said that the figurehead would see them through troubled waters and guide them safely home when they got lost.

 

 

Here’s Lynne thinking – they could have used me for that!

 

 

They also used big cannons to guard the harbour from the French and assorted others.

 

Here’s Ian thinking – I could have done that

 

They also used to miss their gardens back home

 

Any guesses as to what Pat is thinking?

 

 

We arrived at a good time as the Atlantic rowers had just completed their Atlantic crossing. Hat’s off to them – they make my achievements seem pathetic in comparison.

 

4 of the successful rowing boats

 

 

Close up – they really are tiny – this is a two man job

 

 

 

After Lynne and Ian left we went back to the peace and quiet of Deep Bay. The cold front passed through and the visibility increased dramatically. So for Lynne and Ian - here’s a sunset from Deep Bay. Miss you guys already.

 

Deep Bay Sunset looking across to Nevis – 40 miles away

 

 

Pat said to me - you know they were very brave sailing across to Nevis and St Kitts without knowing what they were letting themselves in for. They put so much trust in you. Maybe so – maybe they were courageous. But who just crossed the Atlantic without knowing what she was letting herself in for. Who’s the really brave one!

 

Brave or not – they came to learn about sailing – and without realising – they learned a lot.

 

They now know how to put up the mainsail and how to reduce it’s area when it gets too windy. They can do the same with the headsail.

 

They are experts at anchoring – feeling the chain to make sure the anchor is fixed in place - taking transits to make sure the boat is not dragging its anchor – rigging a snubber to take the strain off the windlass – recovering the anchor with lots of hand signals to the helmsman – they could do it in their sleep.

 

They learned all about winching and still have all their fingers – well done.

 

Customs and immigration procedures and the various flag etiquettes – no problem.

 

Different points of sail – downwind fast and quiet and the boat stays upright – upwind slow and wet and the boat leans over – guess which is Lynne’s favourite.

 

Navigation – no problem – Antigua, Montserrat, Redonda, Nevis, St Kitts, Sandy Island, Gerbil Rock - all became second nature to them.

 

Provisioning the boat – you need lots of beer and rum. Simple really!

 

And finally – Ian passed his exam – he can now tie a bowline. Well done guys. I hope I haven’t put you off sailing for ever!

 

Here’s a few more random memories for you.

 

Make up your own heading

 

 

Ditto

 

 

And again

 

 

That’s it folks

 

 

So what were the highlights of the 2 weeks for everyone.

 

For Ian it was the colour of the water

For Lynne it was the temperature of the water

For Pat it was sports day on Nevis

And for me  - it was watching Ian manage to swim a lap of the boat.

 

Next we head off to St Martin/St Maarten – the half French half Dutch island.