So with the euphoria of successfully crossing an ocean
slowly ebbing away it was time to get back to the fun side of sailing – ie
coastal cruising. The Grenadines were calling – but first we had to get past the
pitons in St
Lucia. They had avoided us the day we did the
land based tour by being shrouded in mist, This time it was different. With a
bit of planning we arrived just offshore about an hour before sunset and then
had the joy of seeing them bathed in the evening sun and then again as the moon
rose over them. They are magnificent.
The pitons just before
dusk |
|
We opted for a fast overnight passage down to Bequia by
sailing down the windward side of St Vincent.
It was bouncy but the plan came together and we arrived in Bequia at dawn the
following day.
New countries – different flags – hoisting
St Vincent and the
Grenadines |
|
After a quick kip and then battling customs and
immigration it was time for a beer at the local whaling bar. Bequia has a
history of whaling and this bar has jawbones for the entrance and vertebrae for
the bar stools. Check these out.
Beats the usual front
gate |
|
Think we can get some of these in IKEA when we get
home ? |
|
There are several islands in the Grenadines and most of
them are nothing to do with Grenada. After Bequia we stopped at
Chatham Bay on Union Island. It’s deserted but a couple of the
locals have set up little shacks on the beach. They pick you up from your yacht,
ferry you ashore, cook you a barbeque and then take you back to your yacht. Pat
chose Ballhead whose shack and been burnt down recently.
Barbeque at Ballhead’s
|
|
Chatham bay was lovely and being deserted
was full of wildlife. The snorkelling was excellent and a spotted moray eel out
in the open was a real treat. The fish life was so plentiful that it supported a
flock of resident pelicans and we watched them feeding for hours. We stayed
there for new year and tried to fix the starter switch for the engine. No joy
- so it was down to hot wiring the
solenoid every time we want to fire up the
motor.
New year’s eve – amateurs at
work |
|
New year’s eve – professionals at
work |
|
Next stop was Petit St Vincent which has a superb beach
and not much else except a hotel for very rich people. It’s tiny and you can
walk round most of it in about an hour. We left the yacht there and had dinner
on Petit Martinique about 15 minutes away by dinghy. Petit Martinique has
nothing to do with Martinique or St Vincent – it’s part of Grenada. Confusing isn’t it! Never
mind – nobody bothers with passports round
here.
Superb specimen on the beach at Petit St
Vincent |
|
Then it was back to Union Island to a town called Ashton. This
really was like going back in time.
Local resident |
|
They don’t take prisoners kindly here. Note the dire
warning !
Prosecution is one thing
….. |
|
The local supermarket didn’t have much stock
But it did have a nice picture on the
steps. |
|
So with the supermarket not coming up trumps it was down
to the skipper to go and find some food.
Breakfast
anyone? |
|
Once Paul had found sufficient it was down to Pat to
prepare and cook these sea urchins. They’re called sea eggs in Barbados and were a delicacy she
remembered from childhood.
Stage one – cut them apart and harvest the bit you
eat |
|
We all had some fried that morning and we’re still alive
to tell the tale.
Raw sea eggs before
cooking |
|
Palm Island came
next.
This is another tiny island with a swanky hotel and
not much else. |
|
And then it was on to the Tobago Cays – the jewel in the
crown of the Grenadines – and nothing to do with Tobago ! The Cays are a national park and marine reserve
and home to loads of giant marine turtles which we snorkelled with for ages.
This is the turtle beach on Baradel Island
Barrie wants David Attenborough’s
job |
|
We also went ashore to explore and meet some of the land
based residents.
This is a tortoise – not a
turtle. |
|
Who says iguanas don’t climb
trees? |
|
We then went to another island in the Cays called Petit
Bateau. The path to the top was a scratchy scramble for bare legs but the view
from the top was magnificent.
View from summit of Petit
Bateau |
|
Nothing between the boats and Africa – 3,000 miles away - except the horseshoe
reef in the foreground and the World’s End reef in the
background. |
|
After that it was a mad dash North up to Antigua for
flights home to the UK. Over the 4 day trip we called in
just long enough to drop an anchor and sleep at St
Lucia, Martinique, and Iles des Saintes (part of
Guadeloupe) before leaving the boat in Jolly Harbour, Antigua. It
was a case of 03.30 starts and dusk
finishes.
We had a tremendous dolphin encounter heading North past
the Pitons off the coast of St Lucia. There must have been at
least 100 in the pod. It didn’t matter in which direction you looked , we were
surrounded by them for about half an hour.
Dolphins under the bow of
Peejay |
|
We’re back to Antigua on February 4th -
provided we can escape the snow in the UK.