S04° 12.254 E152° 10.213E
two of the voyage on 'Lapita Anuta'.
the end of the 900Nm long second leg of Lapita Voyage was reached when we
dropped anchor at 2am in the morning on Christmas Eve in the smelly harbour of
Jayapura. We did a rather neat entry under sail in the dark and rain and felt
pleased with ourselves, we had a drink of rum punch to celebrate Christmas and
our arrival, but we were EXHAUSTED.
had been 3 weeks of hard sailing since we crossed the Equator off the West
coast of Halmahera in Indonesia, too much sailing and not enough time to relax
ashore. We anchored a few times in pretty anchorages, but had to leave again
the next morning without time to explore the shore. It was difficult anchoring
on the steep coral ledges that surround islands, too shallow close to shore,
too deep just 20m further out, so the only way was to anchor parallel to the
shore with fore and aft anchors hooked into the coral slope at about 6-8m and
hope there is no strong onshore wind in the night, or the tide dropping and one
hull scraping the coral!!
was one idyllic bay with white sand beach at the South end of Gebe Island, the
last island off the South East end of Halmahere, but this beautiful place was
spoiled by the visit of a intrusive policeman, who we found it hard to get rid
of. He spoke no English at all, but was still capable of making us all feel
thoroughly uncomfortable. This was the time that Christoph on the other boat
got ill with a bladder complaint, that turned serious as time passed.
Gebe we had to negotiate Dampier Strait at the NW end of the head of New
Guinea. We had no tidal information and were faced with contrary currents in
the narrows. Later we heard the times the current would be in our favour and
made use of this.
the North side of Dampier Strait is the small island of Kri, here we stopped
for one day (9th December) at a luxury Dive Resort, run by a nice Dutchman called
Max, and enjoyed, just briefly, some shore luxuries and nice meals.
Unfortunately the anchorage (mooring) was in a tiny lagoon where the surf
rolled in and made sleeping aboard very uncomfortable. In Kri the two
Christophs left us, one was too ill to continue and the other needed to catch
his plane on time. There were now just three crew on each boat. On Anuta this
was James, myself and Eve, a German journalist writing for 'Stern' magazine
about women aboard.
now faced a long distance without stopping, 300Nm to Biak Island, where three
new crew would come to meet the boats (rather than wait in Jayapura) and one
would need to leave. We were still well behind schedule so could not afford
more stops and anyway, there isn't much to stop at along this coast. This was a
hard sail taking 6 days, with as first challenge a short (4 hour) gale in the
night, probably about force 7, along the coast off the 'head' of New Guinea,
running before the wind under stormsail, where James and I both steered, one on
each tiller as one rudder did not give enough steerage in the breaking
following seas. The next day I made a sea anchor from two nesting rattan
Filipino baskets, so if we are ever caught out like this again we can keep her
stern to the waves. A few days later I also fitted a tillerbar, connecting the
two rudders, which does make steering more powerful.
sunset the next day we suddenly got a huge swell with little to no wind. With
no wind we loose steerage and the boat then naturally lies beam on to the seas,
so you can imagine lolloping about for hours in huge beam seas going nowhere.
Later we discovered there had been a cyclone near Guam, North of the Equator
and this swell was probably the result of this. Then some more strong wind in
the night and the inevitable sail changes. Eve was feeling sick, but she always
came to help me do the sails while James steered. Next morning back to the
swell and no wind, then cloud and pouring rain, will this ever be a nice
last three days more of the same, clouds and rain to no wind and very hot. The
first 4 days we averaged 68, 73, 72 and 53 Nm per 24 hours, but on day 5 we
made just 16 Nm, due to total lack of wind, and what wind there was was against
us. We have been looking at the Western end of Biak Island all day, but cannot
get there. Lapita Tikopia has been a bit luckier and is about 8-10Nm ahead of
us, they decide they have to use the dinghy motor and try to get into the
village of Korido before nightfall, so Gisela can get to her aeroplane on time,
she just makes it!!
carried on through the night and finally had a beautiful breeze, self steering
on a flat sea, this was more like it. About 3-4 Nm from the village I could not
see it as there were hardly any shore lights, but could hear it. Somehow they
had disco music on loud at 4.30 in the morning! We arrived in Korido village
early in the morning, just as the clouds opened with more pouring rain.
couple of days in the nice little village of Korido did something to get over
the overdose of hard sailing, but it is not long enough. We sailed on to the
port of Biak to buy supplies and unknowingly anchored off the Naval base (again
in the dark). The naval officers were nice and helpful and gave us a lift to
town in their truck, but we again had to go through the usual endless
final long stretch to Jayapura, another 300Nm, took us 4 days. One day in this
typical Indonesian town was enough (we did have a little Christmas Eve party
ashore), we cleared customs and left on Christmas day for Wewak in Papua New
Guinea, where we hoped to find nicer surroundings and some peace for a rest!?