Kakadu and Arnhem Land

www.kanaloa55.com
David & Valerie Dobson
Tue 10 Jul 2007 15:15

 

12:38.726 S  131:00.548 E

 

5th – 8th July 2007

Kakadu National  Park

A 5.30am start allowed us to get to Fogg Dam for daybreak, the cacophony of bird noise was almost unbelievable as were the number of mosquitoes 

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The park is a unique archaeological and ethnological reserve, located in the Northern Territory of Australia.  It has been inhabited continuously for more than 40,000 years.  The cave paintings, rock carvings and archaeological sites record the skills and way of life of the region’s inhabitants, from the hunter-gatherers of prehistoric times to the Aboriginal people still living here.  It is a unique example of a complex of ecosystems, including tidal flats, floodplains, lowlands and plateaux.  It provides a habitat for a wide range of rare or endemic species of plants and animals.

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Cattle Egrets watching over the sunrise at Fogg Dam

 

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Jabiru or Black necked stork  with Intermediate Egrets at Fog Dam Conservation Reserve

 

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Radjah Shelducks

 

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We thought about hiring this floating home from Mary River Houseboats, but due to very little notice, ended up renting a small aluminium boat for the day instead, a very pleasant way to get close to abundant wildlife on the that river, and get back on the water again after spending so much time on the road!

 

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At least we had plenty of caging around us to protect us from these Salt Water Crocodiles

Basking on the banks of the river!

 

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No need to say how vicious the ‘Salties’ jaws are, his kind having been around for 25million years!

 

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This white bellied sea-eagle was one of many that kept us enthralled watching over their nests.  This Jabiru must have been a young one, as he should have a white neck and red legs!

 

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This oil painting by David Byard gives the best impression of the surroundings we had cruising up the river

 

011b Arnhem Land.JPG            013b Repainting the sacred rock sites in the 60's.JPG

 

These escarpments have many rock overhangs in which the Aborigines sheltered from the deluges in the rainy season, many of which are sacred sites where they painted their ‘dreamings’ of their cultural history for teaching to the younger members of their clan.  It is one of the longest continuous traditions of art in the world, dating back at least 50 thousand years.  We were lucky enough to get permit to entre Arnham Land for the day in order to visit the Aboriginal lands

 

013a.JPG 014b  Nangaluwur, 1st pntgs, 30,000 yrs ago.JPG

The paintings of hands are the oldest paintings, becoming more sophisticated 20 thousand years ago

 

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Namarndjolg is the large figure next to the lightning man at top right.   He and his sister broke the incest laws on the rock ledge above this gallery, and later became Ginga the great saltwater crocodile.  With his wife, they became parents to Aljura, the Leichardt’s grasshopper, which appears when the first storms break.

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Lightning Man

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David is watching Graham painting stretched tree bark in traditional paint made from Red Ochre,(you can see where the paint

Is made on the ground)  yellow ochre and white clay made from rubbing the stone on the ground with water and glue.  The black is made from charcoal.

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Hamilton is painting a totemic pole with his clans symbols.  This lady is painted for a woman’s ritual ceremony.

 

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Alguyo, the fire woman is one of the first people who created the world.   She planted the yellow banksia trees in the woodlands and used their smouldering flowers to carry fire.  Dingoes travelling with her helped her to hunt possum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nayuhyoonghoe created the world and gave future generations laws to live by.  Some took on human forms, others changed from humans to animals.  All have special powers.  These people are invisible to normal people.  They live in caves and hollow trees and come out at night.  Some have 6 fingers on each hand and carry dilly bags for their victims liver!

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                                                                                                                       These fish, with x-ray interiors are more recent, 10,000 yrs old!

 

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Modern day rainbow serpent in the process of being painted above, with one ancient style of rainbow serpent below,

Painted on a sacred rock site, showing the story of his creating people by regurgitating them

 

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One of the Aboriginal houses in Oenpelli, care of the Australian Government

There is a move afoot to try and get them to buy their own houses, but it is unlikely to be successful, as Aboriginal culture only understands sharing and do not believe in owning anything other than their cultural heritage.

Some of the Aboriginal artists are now earning large sums of money, their work is so sought after.  However, all their money is shared amongst their family, and they show very little signs of any improvement in their own life style.  It seems to be the younger generation who use the money to buy big cars, TV’s and radios, but then of course those family members never get to learn the artistic skills of their elders.

 

 

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We saw quite a few of these small eared rock wallabies whilst we were walking too