Bodies everywhere!

Minus 3 of their 4 bags, the 3 boys arrived on the afternoon of 28^th June. We were suddenly 8 onboard! A crowd, but a family fun crowd! Rob and Liz put up with the inconvenience and stepped aside to get some fresh air every so often!

That evening we went to the Jean Michel Cousteau resort for a traditional Fijian Lovo feast. Lovo is the method used to cook a variety of meats and vegetables in an underground “oven”. On this evening, a pig was being roasted wrapped in banana and coconut fronds, to retain moisture, along with some local root vegetables. In the early afternoon, hot coals are placed in a dug-out hole underground, along with the wrapped meat and vegetables and covered in more leaves, fronds and soil to gently cook for the afternoon. There is a special unveiling and gratitude ceremony before the food can be consumed. The resultant delicious feast was juicy and succulent. Enjoyed by all.

Many of the crew also participated in the Kava ceremony, a ritual of drumming, vocalizations, and clapping, before downing the muddy drink in one gulp. The kava juice, made from the roots of the shrub, numbs the tongue a little and is said to be relaxing and great for insomnia. True to say, certain members of the groups were noticed to be dropping off at the dinner table – Kava or jet lag, who knows?

Dinner was accompanied by a gutsy choir and dance troupe, entertaining us with traditional Fijian tunes and moves.

The next day, we set off at a respectable 10:00, to hike, through jungle and taro plots, to the welcome cool water of Makita waterfall with the inimitable Sharon. The new crew members were christened in the sweat of Fijian humidity.

At 13:15 on 30^th June, as soon as Peggy (the engine) had stablized adequately, we set sail for Namena Island, a marine nature reserve 26 nautical miles from Savusavu. Namena reserve is said to have unparalleled biodiversity. We certainly noticed, sailing in through the pass, the abundant bird life nesting in the treetops on the jungle bedecked island. Over 600 pairs of red-footed Boobies have been reported to nest on this small unsullied island. Additionally, this island is a safe haven for nesting Green and Hawksbill turtles, who come back year after year, confident that their offspring will survive to perpetuate the species.

Namena was devastated during cyclone Winston in February 2016. Winston was the strongest tropical cyclone in history to ever make landfall in Fiji. It wiped out entire villages and left almost 350,000 Fijians distraught and homeless. The resort that once thrived on the island was raised to the ground. A rebuild is in process. The wildlife on the island has been left in peace to flourish with very little human aggravation. Diving and snorkeling trips are available from Savusavu, but access to the island is limited. The reserve is managed by a 2-person office in Savusavu, which charges a $30 fee to anchor off the island and enjoy the amenities. They make sure to let you know that the money goes towards the preservation of the reserve.

The sailing was perfect. A healthy southeasterly wind, 12-16 knots, gusting 22 knots, with main and genoa up, kept us scooting along at a fine clip. We went snorkeling without delay and were completely charmed. Louis proclaimed it the best snorkeling so far!

Sad to say, Heidi and I felt a little under the weather and, infuriatingly, tested positive for Covid! We donned those cute masks we have all managed to accumulate. Luckily all others aboard remain negative.

With the wind moving more easterly, and strengthening to 16-24 knots, we set sail for Musket Cove, leaving Namena at about 16:30. Seabird left shortly thereafter. The race was on! We sailed neck and neck throughout the night, Rob was in fine form, barely able to sleep for fear we might lose ground. Bodies were everywhere, some feeling a little queasy, others hot and sweaty, not many in their actual bunk! Despite the mayhem, Rob kept his eye on the ball and it paid off. Let it be marked in the record for eternity, Irene IV won!!

The Oyster fleet assembled at the enchanting little Musket Cove marina for a party on 3^rd July. Some enjoyed the party ashore in full Fijian garb, others had to stay onboard and watch! The band was fantastic, so those onboard were, at least, pleasantly entertained.

Today, American Independence Day, July 4^th, sees all American boats festooned with red, white, and blue Americana! Irene IV did a beach clean to mark the day, on the windward beach and picked up 8 bags of mostly plastic waste washed ashore.