12:38.168N 061:21.802W - Alvin's Place
Irene IV - World Adventure
Louis Goor
Mon 17 Jan 2022 17:13
We arrived into Troisanse Bay, Mayreau at 14:45 after a perfect day of sailing. Winds pushed us along on a reach with an average speed of 8 knots. Irene IV, coupled with the mastery of captain Stuart, kept us very comfortable. Upon arrival, a very colorful wooden boat, with a uniquely pointy bow hailed our attention. Skippered by Alvin, a local, born and bred, he enquired whether we would like to participate in a beach barbecue, around the head on the beach at Salt Whistle Bay. Our New York sceptic aboard (Angus) fired questions, where, when, how, why, are you sure, is it a scam…?? The remainder of the crew, already in Caribbean, laid back mode, were charmed by the idea. Visions of groups of tourists around an open fire, with fish sizzling on a spit, filled our imaginations throughout the day. When 18:00 came around we were ready to embark on our adventure, scam or not we were all in. The sea state was choppy, to say the least, and we had to round a very rocky, nasty looking point to get to our idyllic barbecue spot. Alvin, a hot blooded young islander likes speed! We jettisoned through the waves at break neck speed as dusk engulfed us, the waves seemed much bigger from this closer vantage point. Louis, with can of beer in hand, seemed unperturbed. Angus, ever the doubter, seemed even surer that he may never see his wife and family again and said his prayers ready for a salty grave! Screaming to a halt on the sandy beach, we were virtually catapulted out of the rainbow punt, happy to be on dry land. Alvin tied his boat to the remains of a pier, obviously gobbled some years ago by a ravenous hurricane, and led us to his domain. The beach was surprisingly deserted, even though there were at least 12 catamarans moored in the bay. It seemed most people chose to eat aboard - maybe they had the Angus cynical bug? We were greeted by Alvin’s adorable little 2 year old daughter, Shakira. She took a shine to Louis, stroking him and pulling at his clothing. She subsequently came over to me and wanted to reach inside my bag. Sadly, I had not thought to bring any of the little gifts I have brought along for this purpose - mental note made. We met Alvin’s charming wife, Donne, a lady with a gorgeous big open smile. She and an older women prepared our dinner inside a ramshackle hut, while Alvin barbecued. We dined on Red Snapper, line caught off the regional big island, Union Island, that day, (sustainable grade A) accompanied by deliciously seasoned rice, stuffed potatoes and salad. No groups of tourists, no open fire, but a much more authentic, intimate view at the life and work of a young local family. Alvin, the hunter, tracks his prey (new boats arriving in one of the bays), charms them with his attractive, island intonation and wham they are caught! His family thrives another day. Angus, a New York sceptic no more, was equally captivated and transformed. Our plastic mission goggles noticed the older woman heading out to gather water, using empty 5L water bottles - hearts were gladdened. Irene IV at anchor in Admiral Bay, Bequia  Reused plastic bottles used as Lobster pot or fishing net markers  Goodnight Irene IV crew  Angus, is trying daily, to catch us a fresh fish. So far he has caught lots of nutritious seaweed!  Sad to report that whale bone products are prevalent in the market stalls on Bequia. Whalers are allowed to catch one whale a year. Happy to report that feed bags are being reused as grocery bags - beautifully decorated with colorful fabric edging. Angus installs his wind sock to save on air conditioning use in these warmer climes. Recycling bins are present, but often not used. Dusk falls at Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau  Dining at Alvin and Donne’s Restaurant on the beach. Humans are trying, all over the place, to save the planet. |