Palusami and Other Fijian Delicacies

Mili and Ba, two sweet sisters, came to the boat to teach us how to make Palusami, a succulent Fijian vegetable dish. Through another Oyster yacht we learned about the charming Sharon, an English expat, who has lived here for 10 years. She owns a splendid lodge high up a very steep hill which has a million-dollar 270° view of sea, coast, and an endless fluffy clouded sky. We had contacted Sharon upon arrival to help us plan our explorations of the island delights. First item on the agenda was a strenuous hike up and down the hills starting at the bracing hour of 06:30. We were joined by the crews of Latobe and Makara, so despite the hour, we were a merry bunch. The gang were truly awake by the time the taxi had brought us to Sharon’s lodge. The taxi ride was up the side of what seemed like a 45° grade unpaved road. There were 14 of us in a 5-seater truck! Most eyes were firmly closed, and many prayers were uttered as we screeched up the bumpy hill. Tumbling out, grateful to be alive, we set off at quite a clip following the slim, trim, and splendidly fit Sharon. A thousand photos later we were thrilled to have been part of this expedition. Later there was a waterfall cool pool dip, a volcanic mud swaddle and a stroll through a local village. Later still a massage on Sharon’s deck, followed by a scrumptious dinner chez Sharon where we met the sweet sisters. Mili and Ba work for Sharon, as cooks, cleaners, and hostesses. We all waxed lyrical about the delicious Palusami they had cooked and served for the fun supper party.

Palusami uses all local ingredients, coconut, taro leaves, onions, garlic, and lemons. In the early morning, prior to coming to the boat for our cooking lesson, the girls picked 10 coconuts and a bag full of young crisp taro leaves from their family farm. They scraped the coconut meat out of the coconut shell with a special wooden coconut husking tool. This is a lengthy, laborious task. They pre chopped 4 onions and a jar full of minced garlic. At about 12:30 they arrived on Irene IV. The coconut scrapings were doused with water and massaged and kneaded by hand to coax out the juicy coconut milk. To the milk, onions, garlic and salt were added. The taro leaves were pressed into a 3-leaf deep concave bowl, a generous cupful of the coconut mixture was poured into the prepared leaf bowl, and the outer edges of the leaves were folded towards the middle to form a packet. The little packets were wrapped in foil with a little extra milk added to steam the leaves and cooked at 180°C/350°F for 30 minutes.  5 minutes before the end of the cooking time we added the juice of a local orange fleshed lemon. Taro leaves are somewhat like spinach in texture and flavor. Strangely, if they are not cooked for an adequate amount of time, they feel a little scratchy in the throat. Our Palusami was totally delicious, with no scratchy throats!

In the midst of all these excursions we were fortunate to meet a colorful lady, called J! It so happens that she was a neighbor of our cousins in Antigua, Lisa and Desmond Nicolson, for many years in the 80’s and 90’s. We put them together on What’s App for a virtual reunion, to squeals of delight. We have spent many a joyous night with her since and she has become an honorary cousin herself! 

Yesterday morning at Myzomeia fart, (the Fijian equivalent of the sparrow), we attempted to leave the Copra Shed marina in Savusavu to sail the 10 hours to the island of Taveuni, but Peggy had other plans. She coughed, spluttered, and ran that fever again. So, we are back at Copra Shed in the capable hands of the diminutive mechanic, Sami! As I write they are doing a sea trial and all digits available are crossed.

The Copra Shed was once the location of a coconut processing facility. Coconut oil is expelled from the “copra”, the dried kernel of the coconut.

For dinner we cooked root vegetables in a bubbling hot spring! A beautiful use of the Earth’s natural resourses.The community of Savusavu have capitalized on the natural springs that steam here and there all over the landscape. Beside the community sports fields a series of pools have been concreted with food staging areas around the boiling springs and thatched covered seating areas to prepare food or dine. Families come with vegetables in flour and potato sacks, which are submerged in the hot water to cook to perfection. Others bring big pots filled with meats and vegetables to enjoy a delicious stew. We chatted with Eddie, a local school teacher, and his wife and 3 boys, who come often to cook produce from their garden. They generously, in true Fijian style, shared much of the cooked results with us. 

Tomorrow more family members arrive. We are excited to welcome, Louis’ son, George, my son Quinn and our sister’s son Ignaz onboard. Hopefully, Peggy realizes how important it is that she kick this bug once and for all. It is going to be a tight squeeze with 8 onboard, but fun!