09:58.787S 140:20.856W - Join us for a quick drink before dinner
Irene IV - World Adventure
Louis Goor
Tue 12 Apr 2022 22:08
It appears that “join us for a quick drink before dinner”, among the Oyster
fleet, means, come at 1800 and stay until all drink and food aboard runs
dry!
On Thursday, 7th April, we sailed the short distance from Taiohae Bay to the
calmer bay of Hakatea with a quiet anchorage behind a short rocky return.
Here we enjoyed the company of the jolly Akoya crew for a drink and hors
d’oeuvres before dinner, dinner was very late that night!
Early next morning we set off on a hike through a lush tropical forest to a
glorious cascade pool. Landing on the shore was exciting, navigating
breakers and tide, we all had a second salty shower! The village of 10
inhabitants was charming and, in true French style, beautifully kept. We
were met by Maurice, who asked for the $10 hiking fee and offered us fruit
for sale and a Marquesan lunch or dinner if we so desired. We accepted all
and set off on our adventure. As we walked, we squelched over a carpet of
fallen mango and guava fruits, under the shade of copious fruit trees and
coconut palms. We had been warned to watch out for falling coconuts and
rocks! We swam in cool mountain pools and enjoyed the sheer rocky vistas. 5
hours later we returned, well exercised and pleasantly weary. After a quick
bite aboard, some hull cleaning and 40 winks, we set out again for the
shore. This time, Enda and Nick kindly took the brunt of the wetting waves
and the balance of the crew stayed dry. Have no fear, on the way back to the
boat after dinner, we all had a proper dousing! Dinner was magnifique! Goat,
shot by Maurice that morning, in a delicate coconut sauce, Poisson cru, with
lime, spices and coconut milk, banana beignets, and roasted breadfruit. In
the company of Maurice, his wife Charlotte and their 6 children, and fellow
villagers, Jean Pierre (master carpenter) and Judith, we dined like royalty
in this serene setting, on a tidy beach, dotted with palm trees, bedecked
with flashing Christmas lights.
No beach cleans necessary here! The French culture, with pride in
appearances, has permeated throughout Marquesan villages. Every dwelling and
beach front is neatened daily, and piles of leaves and flower petals are
burned regularly. Houses are encircled by flower beds and exquisitely
decorated planter boxes, perfected placed, with the French eye for design.
We have not seen a plastic bottle cast aside inappropriately anywhere.
Recycling is carefully separated and processed. This is a well-run, pride of
place, part of the world. A refreshing change for the ever-vigilant Irene IV
team.
A few days previously, we rented a car. With Enda at the wheel, we braved
the twists and turns of the concrete roads to the northern tip of the
island. The pristine bay of Hatiheu was our arrival prize, although the
spectacular views of the bay of Taiohae, where Irene IV was at anchor, along
the way were reward enough. We swam in the churning waves crashing onto the
magnificent sandy beach, followed by a freshwater rinse and a delicious
typical Marquesan lunch in Yvonne’s restaurant.
On Saturday, 9th April, having fueled (poor Nick, got completely showered in
diesel!) and provisioned (not a carrot nor oats in sight!) in Taiohae Bay,
we pointed our bow out to sea, happy to be sailing again and leaving the
relative busyness of Nuku Hiva’s main port. The sailing was outstanding, a
gently heeling boat, on a close reach, at a speed of 9-10 knots, with a
waning sun, offering us a colourful light display bouncing off the shapely
cottony clouds.
A night at anchor in Anaho Bay, with a morning snorkel, and a gentle walk
along the beach, saw our final day on the island of Nuku Hiva. We strolled
past a decorative wooden church and a boarding school, closed for Easter
holidays, and again the necklace of gorgeous gardens strung around proudly
maintained cottages. We dined ashore with the crews of Akoya and
Serendipity, and might still be there if the proprietors had not turned the
lights out at 2000!
The island of Oa Pou came into view on the afternoon of Monday, 11th April.
We searched for a sheltered anchorage and dropped anchor at 1630, delighted
to have discovered a solitary spot, for a quiet night’s sleep, before the 3
days at sea bound for the Tuamotu archipelago. Not for long! Within the
hour, Intrepid and Makara joined us! We tentatively invited them over for “a
quick drink before dinner”! They left at midnight! We drank most of the
ship’s wine stocks and ate canapés followed by the Irene IV dinner, meant
for 5, and shared amongst 14! There was much music, both canned and live,
dancing, and merry making to be had.
We have learned to be prepared in the future, when the tentative invitation
to “join us for a quick drink before dinner” is issued!