The Turbulent Indian Ocean

26^th October 2022

We had been warned that the Indian Ocean is a beast compared to the placid waters of the Pacific. We now know this to be true. With large rollers, cross currents, and billowing trade winds, we have rarely moved slower than 8.5 knots and more often 10 or 11 knots. Day and night we are buffeted through the water, on a roller coaster, up on the crest of a wave and hurled down the other side screaming in terrorized  pleasure, forwards at speed, and back  the other way, sashayed side to side, like a lifeless rag doll, with a crash and a wallop, a jerk and a jolt, a clash and a splash, we are thrown hither and thither like a ball in a game of donkey, once high, once low, once caught, once dropped. Today, day 5 at sea, we have grown accustomed to moving through the boat carefully, always wearing a life jacket outside of the cockpit area with a spotter for extra security. Meals are a little less glamorous – today we passed the ice cream carton around with 4 spoons, to hell with bowls! Despite the bumps, George made pizza for lunch! He and the galley did end up decorated with flour and tomato sauce!

Every 15^th or 20^th wave is a big one, Irene is heaved on her side, the boom takes a dip and more often than not the cockpit gets a total dousing. The trick is to see it coming and run for cover. All cushions have been removed. In the galley or in the head one of these big ones can add rapidly to the bruise count on legs and arms! It is not exactly comfortable. Sleep is fitful, always bracing against the next wave. However, the mood is jolly, as we compose limerick after limerick to while away the time!

We are moving west, as we are wont to do, with delicious south-easterly trades pushing us along with gusto at 25 gusting 32 knots. Irene is enjoying a reach-broad reach point of sail, sometimes with the genoa goose winged on the pole, sometimes not. The climate is very pleasant, occasionally needing a light sweater, a welcome reprieve from the glaring sun. Although we are quite literally in the middle of nowhere, we have our buddies on Black Lion close by. We chat regularly on VHF radio, which has about a 10-mile radius for successful use. Ed, Black Lion owner and good friend, has given us an emergency satellite phone, which allows us some contact with the outside world.

Some habits die hard, so afternoon tea, is still served every afternoon. We now call it Tim Tam Time, in honour of the addictive Australian chocolate biscuit, which washes down well with a Wedgewood cup of Lapsang Souchong tea.

Life is good at sea! Louis, uncharacteristically, is fully engrossed in a book about the Clunies-Ross family of Cocos Keeling fame! Rob is sharing time with John Grisham on his Kindle, in between obsessive sail trimming! George is cooking, writing, fishing, whining and generally being a 15-year-old! And here I am writing to you!