20:56.375S 055:16.995E - Rushed Reunion
Irene IV - World Adventure
Louis Goor
Thu 17 Nov 2022 19:23
At 15:20 on the 7th November we slipped lines at Port Louis, Mauritius,
heading southwest to Port de la Pointes-des-Galets, La Réunion. The 18-hour
150nm sail was what is known as champagne sailing! We had flat seas, a
glorious full moon, a bright twinkling sky, and the most glorious sunrise.
Most of the way we had a view of land, Mauritius behind, La Réunion ahead
and then on our port side. We were in the company of many of our rally
friends and took delight in passing a few of them in the depths of the
night. Rob was still onboard after all!
Gottfried on Yolo sent the following What’s App just before we arrived in
Port de la Pointes-des-Galets, “Welcome to Reunion. The armpit of the OWR.”
We were concerned. As we approached the north coast of the island, we were
struck by the dramatic landscape. The high, precipitous coastline of
volcanic origin still has one live volcano, Piton de la Fournaise, which
erupted last in 1992. The highest point on the island, Piton des Niège is
3069m high, so even with the mountain tops shrouded in cloud the island is
visible from a long way away. We passed the reputed most expensive road in
the world, between the capital, St. Denis and Le Port, a road build like a
bridge along the eastern edge of the northern coast. As we pass, during
“rush hour”, the traffic is plentiful, our first impression is of a lushly
populated, flourishing, and sophisticated island. It is true that the
facilities at the marina at Port de la Pointes-des-Galets were less than
ideal, with bathrooms more often locked than open with a 30-minute walk to
any shop or restaurant, hence Gottfried’s comment. Once we had rented a car
and knew the lie of the land, we were able to appreciate the enchantments of
this far away island.
We are often asked which has been our favourite place on the rally. I always
answer the passages. Even though the Atlantic crossing was often very cold,
the Pacific crossing long and the Indian Ocean crossing turbulent, I relish
the routine and the predictability. That is not to say that arrival in port
is not exciting and departure often bittersweet, but when asked for the
highlights, passages come to my mind. I, personally, have always prided
myself in my liberal mindset and flexibility, which seems counter intuitive
to the comfort obtained from the mundane nature of a passage. However, as
time goes on, I realize, that, like a child, the security and structure of
routine allows for flamboyant flexibility and the enjoyment of life with
(relative) abandon.
We, as a crew on Irene IV, loved French Polynesia so much. The French
government takes care of its own, like the tender care of a mother, thus
allowing its inhabitants, and those visiting, to experience life to the
full, without the nuisance of a failing infrastructure. So, it is in La
Réunion, as part of the Eurozone, as France, with beautiful wide and smooth
roads, glorious well-groomed villages, divine food, and the classic French
attitude of elastic time, we feel at home and relaxed. As both Louis and I
speak French, we are embraced by the locals, who, like many a hot-blooded
French person, are passionate about their mother tongue.
Our time in Reunion was too short. We climbed alongside and swam in the
astonishing cascades on the river Langevin, high in the valley of Grand
Galet. The cascades ooze straight out of the mountain side and gush down to
an ice-cold pool, issuing out from the island’s volcanic core. A swim
catches your breath but cleanses your soul like the water in a baptismal
font! We enjoyed three different meals, each exquisite. Even the simple bar
food, is delivered with reverence, with the utmost of care and respect for
presentation, taste, and simplicity. Oh la la, c’etait delicieux!
Sadly, swimming in the sea is forbidden in Reunion because of the high
instance of death by Bull sharks in her waters. There are a few well-guarded
spots where one can swim, surf or kite surf, but we elected to decline.
Louis, George and Durcan took a helicopter ride around the island, which
George will recount in the next blog.
We said goodbye to Rob, who was bursting with excitement! So much so that he
developed two rips in his travelling shirt!!
On Monday, 14th November at 06:00, our experienced sailor friend Eddie
Tingle joined us. We were finally complete with a jolly crew of 6, Louis,
George, Giles, Durcan, Eddie and me, ready to face what is considered the
most trying leg of our trip. Later that same day, at 16:08, we departed La
Réunion bound for Durban in South Africa